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Stone Z 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ta-Chi Wang
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Danger on Dec 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The holds are mostly good, and yet this climb still feels hard as fuck for the grade.

On a deceivingly overhanging wall, start up from the right side platform. Trust sharp slopers and marginally good crimps to fight your way up to the hump midway using some of the strangest holds you've ever touched - always positive but never quite good enough to stop the feeling of constantly falling off.

The midway hump offers opportunity for a decent rest before the 2nd half, which provides surprisingly good holds that will seem like gifts from God after the first section. An under cling out left lets you move into the inverted trapezoid section. The left edge of the 'zoid is sidepull jugs the whole way while the diagonally angled jugs on the right side are sidepull underclings.

Slip slap your way up using the sides of the otherwise blank face, then grab your huevos and launch for the huge pocket on the top right of the trapezoid. Is it good? yes it is. NOW you can clip! Finish at the anchors on big pockets that just get better and better.

Location 

Right side of the Illusion Wall

Protection 

316 steel (2006)


Comments on Stone Z Add Comment
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Sep 16, 2014

Now THAT is a route write-up Mr. Danger!
By BrianWS
Mar 5, 2017

Great description of a stout route! I remember being shocked at how hard this route was in comparison to nearby 11s - very slopey and great stone.

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