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BETA PHOTO: Ivan's hand drawn topo
|Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>|
This route was established as a practice aid route close to Portland. Some of the belays are bolted. Recently this route was freed, starting via Smoke Signals. See below the Aid climbing description for the Free climbing description and grades.
Pitch 1: Approximately 30 m, 5.7 C1. Start up the slab about 100 feet right of the climbing/no climbing boundary. The first pitch begins with some free climbing and progresses into aid about half way up. Finish at a bolted belay on a grassy ledge.
Pitch 2: Approximately 30 m, C2F. Continue up a corner system, past a tree and follow pins and a bolt to an arching overhang. Aid thru the upper lip of the overhang towards a small tree above a ledge. Step right past the tree and progress up a bolted head wall to another 3 bolt belay. The first two pitches are easy to retreat via rappels.
Pitch 3: 25m Move the belay to above the big tree on the ledge using the fixed line; the one bolt on the face behind the tree is useful for hauling. Continue up the corner right of the bolt and through a series of ledges. Traverse left behind a large tree and continue left and up a seriously bushy ramp. Behind the bush is a double off-width crack with a bolt at the start. Belay from atop of these cracks using a the first bolt of pitch 4 and a pin.
Pitch 4: 15m C1F Follow bolts and fixed gear up a lichen covered blank face to a two bolt hanging belay on the Swiss Family Ledges (SFL).
Pitch 5: 30m 5.6 C1F From the belay move thru easy slabby terrain clipping pins and bolts an d following a fixed line to a bolt and tree. Head strait up on plenty of fixed protection to a small roof, short 5.6 crack and set of anchors at a hanging belay.
Pitch 6: 25m 5.8 C1 From the hanging belay, head strait up on gear to a bolt, or head right for more free climbing. Both join together for loose free and C0 climbing to the final anchors.
Pitch 7: 30m Head up along 3rd class terrain and a few 5th class steps to the hikers trail on top. There are a couple bolts along the way and more fixed rope.
Pitch 7: 5.8 C1 From the hanging belay, head strait up on gear to a bolt, or head right for more free climbing. Both join together for loose free and C0 climbing to the final anchors.
From the top of pitch 7, head up along 3rd class terrain to the hikers trail on top. There are a couple bolts along the way, and when I did it, more fixed rope.
FREE CLIMBING OPTION
This route was free climbed from pitch 2 to pitch 7 in spring of 2016 in conjunction with the Smoke Signals route start. Here are the details if free climbing the route.
Pitch 1&2: See Smoke Signals description.
Pitch 3 5.8 25m: Move the belay to above the big tree on the ledge. Continue up the short right facing corner right of the bolt and through a series of ledges. Traverse left along a ledge, behind a large tree and continue left and up towards a bush at the top of the ramp. Climb a double off-width crack with a bolt at the start. Belay from atop of these cracks using the anchor on the bolt ladder of pitch 4 and a pin.
Pitch 4 5.10d 25m: Ascend a short crack right of the bolt ladder and then traverse left along a hand ledge back to the bolt line. Follow the upper half of the bolt ladder crimping on small edges and pull onto the large Swiss Family Ledge system. Continue following the low fifth class slab steps up and rightward passing a pin and a few more bolts until you reach a belay platform below the steep arete.
Pitch 5 5.11a 30m: Head strait up the arete following a line of bolts and pins to a small roof. Pull the roof on the left and continue up a short crack to a set of anchors at a hanging belay.
Pitch 6 5.9 25m: From the hanging belay, move slightly right and head up a crack on gear passing a few bolts, a pin and two more bolts. Be extremely careful of the blocks that you are climbing on as many are loose time bombs which could let loose at any time. Reach the final anchors
Pitch 7 4th 30m: Follow easy terrain along the ridge crest until you reach the fence adjacent to the summit trail. Ignore the final set of anchors along the way.
From the water spigot go about 100 feet up the climber trail.
All anchors are good bolts. Goes clean with a few fixed pins, and even if they blew you can probably find a way up on clean gear.
Portland Rock (and some other online beta) suggest a much bigger rack than is necessary. Bring doubles from tiny to .75 C4, one or two each red and yellow, and one #3. Grey C3 000 was MVP, bring two. Bring at least one hook. I placed only a couple nuts, mostly smaller sizes. Offset nuts are helpful, offset cams are not useful. I did not find a large cam at all necessary in the offwidth, but some parties may want a 5 or 6.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
May 31, 2016
We freed all the pitches today from the 2nd pitch on, except for 10' of pitch 5, and that should go soon as well. 5.10+.
By Jonathan Croom
Jun 9, 2016
Thanks for adding a better pitch by pitch description, as well as the free beta! I did the route solo, in about 4 pitches, and didn't remember everything by the time I did the write up. And nice work on the (almost) completely free ascent. I was checking it out aid soloing to see if it was worth dragging a partner up to try for a free ascent.