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Stone Mountain South Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Rode T 
Another Alternative T 
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Direct Start to Arch T 
Dirty Crack T 
Discipline, The S 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream On T 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Impossible Dream T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
P.F. Flyers T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
WOSL T 
Yardarm T 
Zoo Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stone Mountain South Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 500'
Location: 36.3916, -81.0473 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 56,595
Administrators: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Nov 15, 2006
Forecast:
Overnight

63°
Sunday

75° | 63°
Monday

70° | 50°
Tuesday

69° | 52°
Wednesday

72° | 56°
Thursday

65° | 51°
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A nice view of the south face with several climbin...

Description 

The south face of Stone Mountain is the main climbing area and home of some of the mountain's most well-known routes. Though it's a trad climbing area, most routes here are friction climbing on high-quality granite slab, with major runouts and little opportunity for protection. The southern exposure makes this a great destination in cooler weather and a furnace to avoid in the summer heat.

All climbers are required to fill out a climbing permit. This can be done at the park office or at a registration kiosk at the base of the mountain. There is no charge for this permit.

Getting There 

After entering the park, drive past the office about two miles down the main park road to a parking lot on the left. Follow a short trail up to an old restored farm and out into a meadow below the face of the mountain, then hike up to the wall that forms the access to the tree ledge where many of the face climbs begin.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.3 miles from here

52 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',6],['5.9',21],['5.10',12],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Stone Mountain South Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Stone Mountain South Face:
No Alternative   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
The Great Arch   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Block Route   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
U Slot   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
The Pulpit   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 800'   
Dirty Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Yardarm   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   
Crystal Lizard   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Grand Funk Railroad   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   
Dixie Crystals   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   
Great White Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   
Mercury's Lead   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 300'   
Fantastic   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'   
Electric Boobs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 280'   
Storm in a Teacup   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 300'   
Rainy Day Women   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Fleet Feet   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Between The Ways   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   
Captain Crunch   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Stone Mountain South Face

Featured Route For Stone Mountain South Face
Rock Climbing Photo: P2 DIXIE CRYSTALS

Dixie Crystals 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  North Carolina : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face
friction skills are all u need for this runout rock shoe friendly route.PITCH 1: from block move up and right passing some flakes and 2bolts to bolted station. 5.8 70ft.PITCH 2: climb past the "navel" to a bolt, then straight up for another clip. dont worry fresh bolts protect. run it out to anchors. 5.9 100ft.PITCH 3: one bolt is all you get @40ft. then angle up and left to anchors. 5.9 100ft.PITCH 4: work left into alcove with gear and follow the corner to the top. 5.7 100ft. use tree to bring...[more]   Browse More Classics in North Carolina

Photos of Stone Mountain South Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rap station from the tree ledge to the base.  Two ...
BETA PHOTO: Rap station from the tree ledge to the base. Two ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tree ledge from slightly right of center.
BETA PHOTO: Tree ledge from slightly right of center.
Rock Climbing Photo: south face
south face
Rock Climbing Photo: one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
one of the great view's @top of stn mtn.
Rock Climbing Photo: broad view of south face showing many of the class...
broad view of south face showing many of the class...
Rock Climbing Photo: start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...
start of great arch. no pro! man stick a cam in th...

Comments on Stone Mountain South Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By bradley white
From: Bend
May 16, 2014
Climbed here in May, 1988 with Jim Shimberg and agreed, it does get greasy humidity on the rock. Run outs were WTF with old 1/4" hardware bolts. no guide book and we did two, probably 5.9's and the classic arch. Didn't think much about grade when I was going to hit the ground after the second bolt. The bolts were spaced reasonably, meaning there was a slope bump to have a stance to hammer a hole in the rock. very rusty crap in 1988 and N.C.N.F. would not permit retro-bolting or doing any new bolted routes. Jim and I thought eventually climbers would be killed here by failing anchors. Glad we got down rappelling and really relieved Stone Mountain was face lifted. there were dozens of goats there.
By DaveBaker
From: Durham, NC
Jun 27, 2016
The guidebook link is incorrect -- updated link is here mountaineersbooks.org/Selected...

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