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Monsters from the Id
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abominable Snowman S 
Boogieman , The S 
Cosmic Monsters S 
Doctor No S 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Heaven S 
Heavenly Monsters S 
Journey to a Mushroom Planet T,S 
Little Demon S 
Monster Crossing S 
Parallel Universe S 
Source of Madness S 
Stone Monkey S 
Triskaidekaphobia S 
White Zombie S 

Stone Monkey 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Mushial
Page Views: 3,420
Submitted By: Peter Beal on May 10, 2008

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danny on stone monkey

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the right of Mushroom Planet is a dihedral-like feature with an undercling hold near the end of it. Stick clip the first bolt and a directional and boulder (V7?) to the undercling and romp up the jugs above.

A very popular and relatively soft option for the grade but a good climb nevertheless. The sitstart seems a bit much--maybe try another route.

Protection 

5 bolts


Photos of Stone Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the ...
Nadya cranking hard on the moves right before the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: i forgot your name too but again, nice to meet you...
i forgot your name too but again, nice to meet you...
Rock Climbing Photo: trying to control that damn swing out...
trying to control that damn swing out...
Rock Climbing Photo: sorry i forgot your name but it was a pleasure sha...
sorry i forgot your name but it was a pleasure sha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Copyright: Greg Shyloski
Copyright: Greg Shyloski

Comments on Stone Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 10, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I've heard many people call this soft... I thought it felt wicked hard so i think i need some good beta... anyone want to spray some?...
By James Otey
From: NH
May 10, 2008

I've heard people call this anywhere from V7-V9... Beta would be great!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

You know what the hardest thing about sending Stone Monkey is, right?



Telling your friends you're a boulderer.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

haha...well im not ready to go down that road...
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 12, 2008

Per comments on Doctor No, this was another obvious route to be added. Rumney climbers help out those of us who want to visit!
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 23, 2010

I'd give the boulder problem at the bottom V8 and the top half maybe 5.11d. Not sure what that adds up to, but it felt pretty stout to me.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Aug 28, 2013

i have beta, well most of it, if u guys want the low down feel free to pm me. . . easy depends on your compression skillz.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 12, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I find it funny that this route's quality rating is evenly split between 1, 2, 3 and 4 stars... perhaps the least agreed on quality rating at Rumney... haha
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 24, 2013
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I figured out beta for this today and found it to be better than i thought... maybe a 2 star... i wasn't able to link it today but it felt doable and i will get back on it...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 16, 2016
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I finally sent this thing so I figure I will add to the discussion I started above.
I have climbed around 20 5.13s at rumney from 13a to 13d and this one took me more than twice the effort (time and # of tries) than any other. I wouldn't say it is harder than others of the grade but it is very style and strength specific. The only place to train for this kind of route at rumney is this cliff.

I am a climber that depends of technique above all else and the Monkey requires a bit (a lot) of power. All in all I felt the boulder start was v9 and the second half was 11+... It is pretty well established as a 13b so I will accept that and try to get stronger.