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> Beer Bottle Spire
Stone IPA
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.7 from 10
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Routes in Beer Bottle Spire
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Free Beer T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stone IPA T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike K, Manuel R, & Chris H |
| Page Views: | 1,530 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mike on Feb 19, 2013 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A nice 2 pitch line up the west side of the south face of the Beer Bottle.
P1: (5.11, 120') Walk up & right along the base of the spire, then traverse left to the start. Place 1 or 2 thin pieces, then face climb past 2 bolts + some optional small gear. Continue up past a short loose section to a fabulous finger crack. Climb this until it tips out, then up & right past a bolt (crux) to a nice stance under a roof. Out left then up a left facing corner (small & medium nuts) in the limestone band on nice face & crack moves, and step right onto the ledge. A nice belay ledge & 2 bolts await atop the limestone band.
P2: (5.11-, 80') Up and left from the belay, passing a bolt, then up a thin crack (10+/11-) that widens to locker fingers. Continue up the great finger crack past an overlap to easier ground, then up and right to the top.
Descent: Continue up & over the spire to a bolted rappel anchor on the opposite (north) side. 1 single rope rappel gets you to the ground, then scramble back to the start.
P1: (5.11, 120') Walk up & right along the base of the spire, then traverse left to the start. Place 1 or 2 thin pieces, then face climb past 2 bolts + some optional small gear. Continue up past a short loose section to a fabulous finger crack. Climb this until it tips out, then up & right past a bolt (crux) to a nice stance under a roof. Out left then up a left facing corner (small & medium nuts) in the limestone band on nice face & crack moves, and step right onto the ledge. A nice belay ledge & 2 bolts await atop the limestone band.
P2: (5.11-, 80') Up and left from the belay, passing a bolt, then up a thin crack (10+/11-) that widens to locker fingers. Continue up the great finger crack past an overlap to easier ground, then up and right to the top.
Descent: Continue up & over the spire to a bolted rappel anchor on the opposite (north) side. 1 single rope rappel gets you to the ground, then scramble back to the start.
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