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White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 
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Stone Hinge T 
Wilted Flower Children T 
Unsorted Routes:

Stone Hinge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tad Welch, Todd Swain, George Hurley & John Thackray
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 17, 2011

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Description 

This route is nice addition if one has done Wilted Flower Children. A short quality finger crack leads to standing on the upper section of the ledge with the belay for Popular Mechanics. From here move right onto the face leads to a wild series of arete moves almost like an easier (and shorter) Good Housekeeping.

The line is somewhat disjointed but both sections are quite fun.

Location 

Move the belay left about 20' from the top of Wilted Flower Children.

A 60m rope will get you to the ground.

Protection 

Finger size, two bolts, two bolt anchor (chain and Metolious rap hanger).


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By S. Saunders
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I climbed this the same day as Murf. I wasn't sure what it was, but it proved to be a pretty nice little diversion while in the area.

At 5'6", I had to s-t-r-e-t-c-h quite a ways to clip the bolt off the ledge...but it's all good.

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