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Elevenmile Dome
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Stone Groove T 
Unnamed 5.9 S 

Stone Groove 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,874
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Sep 10, 2001

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On the Dome's west side is an obvious, low-angled, wide crack. Look for a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb the wide crack to the summit or, downclimb from an obvious ledge above the technical difficulties. This is the same ledge the other routes' walkoff. Downclimb slabs on the west side or go down a gully.


Standard rack, with a few wider pieces for the wide section.

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By Lance Bischoff
Sep 14, 2003

The small pro on standard rack is not going to do much for you, this route is all crack with mostly moderate to large pro opportunities. You could even use some small Bros if you have them, or large cams. Reaching deeper into crack seems only option to place midsize pro, otherwise you'll want BIG stuff or runout.
By Larry Shaw
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a fun route that doesn't see much traffic.
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 12, 2007

If this route is near what you lead comfortably, bring 4-5 pieces of at least 3in. Even a 70m rope will put you in a position to build a belay with large gear.
By climbnowworklater
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 23, 2015

Second the big gear comments. Although, I thought the route was super fun (if you like OWs) and not sure why it doesn't get more stars? Great line, solid rock...classic OW crack climbing at its best!
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 25, 2016

This is the zig-zagging crack to the right of the wide, shrub-filled Kathy's crack. You start by climbing up some big buckets until where the crack begins. Pro is generally quite large in places. I would take at least a #3, #2, #1 and #0.75. Climb up and right, then the crack goes up straight up. Belay all the way where the angle tapers off and the crack heads sharp left. There is a little rock sitting next to the belay that fits snug against the rock. For pitch 2, you can go left below the traversing crack and get good pro at eye level. At some point, just head straight up unprotected all the way to where the wide Kathy's Crack system meets the roof. There is a crack penetrating the roof where you can step up and traverse off the rock face into the descent gully.

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