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The Noir Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.L. 
Crack Problem, The 
Not Without Hope  
Shake Junt 
Stone Cold Stunner 
Warmup , The 
Way of the Samurai 

Stone Cold Stunner 

Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Maybe Thomas Townsend? Bernd?
Season: Any time.
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: andy patterson on May 4, 2014

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Description 

Looking for a burly traverse? This line provides some hard, stretched-out moves on good holds, with lots of foot re-adjustments. Powerful, and surprisingly technical. Also pumpy.

Start sitting as for Shake Junt, then traverse up and left through myrad pockets, crimps, and pinches. Figure out how to transition feet left, and gain the jugs on the central "warm up" of the Noir Boulder (doesn't have a name, but it's the easiest "up" line on the boulder). The top-out isn't hard, but don't expect a giveaway.

Very tiring!

Location 

Begins at the far right of the boulder. Same start as Shake Junt. To wit: sit start with left hand on big hueco and right hand on undercling.

Protection 

Good paddage.


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 4, 2014

Grading was tricky. Thomas did it first, then me, then Dean. All of us thought it was in the 7-8 ballpark. But that's just three opinions. Personally, I grade traverses based on She Made Me Do It, which I believe is THE benchmark for V8 (locally), and a litmus test for how easy or hard something claims to be. Stone Cold Stunner felt about as hard as She Made Me Do It. Maybe slightly easier, but not by much.