REI Community
Sex Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Freezer aka The Fridge, The 
Head Cold S 
Head Like a Hole S 
Rubble S 
Stone Cold Head S 
Stone Cold Modern S 

Stone Cold Modern 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pete Zoller
Page Views: 3,194
Submitted By: Quinn Stevens on Jun 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jerad Friedrichs entering the second crux on Stone...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Stone Cold Heads goes straight out the middle of the Sex Cave. Move through two chipped pockets into a strenuous slot that allows some interesting heel-toe jamming. Make the clip and move up onto some slopers for a marginal rest. From the rest, you move up and right onto the rail, and then into the same, very stout, finish as Rubble. Despite the chipped start, this is a great, relentless line on good stone. This could also be sent natural by traversing in from the left, using a sharp, black pocket.


7 bolts to a two bolt anchor - the route usually has in situ draws on it and the last bolt is now equiped with a chain draw

Photos of Stone Cold Modern Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Battling the undercling, at the start of the final...
Battling the undercling, at the start of the final...
Rock Climbing Photo: The very difficult stab crux of Stone Cold Modern....
The very difficult stab crux of Stone Cold Modern....
Rock Climbing Photo: Alek, controlling the swing after you unload the h...
Alek, controlling the swing after you unload the h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping from the slot.
Clipping from the slot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed McKeown on SCM.  ©2008 Ken Cangi, All Rights R...
Ed McKeown on SCM. ©2008 Ken Cangi, All Rights R...

Comments on Stone Cold Modern Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 10, 2015
By Tom C
May 8, 2006

Do not be deceived from the pictures on this site. There is easier beta with no swings.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

This is a great route, but better if you take the Head Like a Hole finish. The Rubble finish is just extremely thrutchy at the end with the stab to the painful pocket jug. Fun route with lots of trickery....
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c

I am actually a big fan of the "thrutchy" finish to Stone Cold Modern. The boulder problem is condensed and offers great gymnastic movement... so rare for Clear Creek. While the double arete finish to Head Like a Hole is Classic, the straight finish to SCM should not be discounted.

Beta (for top crux). After you reach the good rest at the break (i.e. before the roof--you can throw your left leg over a jug and get a no hands) reach up to the slopers on the HLH traverse until you reach the good slopers below SCM 2nd crux. Heel-toe cam a sloper. Left hand gaston the improbable slot then bump over the lip with your left hand to a decent sloper. Bring your right foot up to a good quarter-size foot then "thruch" to the obvious undercling pinch (it has a 90 degree angle). Switch the heel-toe cam to a toe and stand up taller. Reach the crimp in the crack with your left hand, then bring your right foot up and stem out on a decent foot (with lots of rubber). Get yourself together and throw for a jagged jug out left. Clip. Then just bring your feet up, right hand sidepull (good) and left hand jug (good) to clip the anchors.

How are those anchors doing anyway? Last time I was up there the single Mambo biner was showing significant signs of wear. I have two draws on this route and I would appreciate if they were not removed, unless they are significantly worn (which I doubt they are). Also if you do removed these, please notify me, as the biners should still be good.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

I do the top a bit differently ... I find the "thrutchy" move to be move to the jug with the left hand near the anchors. But, now that you mention it, the move up to the right angle undercling/pinch is a bit of a thrutch as well - a bit like performing a sloppy front lever midroute ... I have been gaining the decent sloper with my left and the blocky undercling pinch with my right, then bumping my left hand left to the middle of the "arete" to a spot with a small thumb catch. I then readjust my feet a bit and bump left again into the jug. This move is always a bit painful and I have a tendency to slam my fingers into the back of the hold, thus provoking the above comments. I am going to try your beta the next time I am up there, maybe it will soothe the last moves a bit. Anyhow, this finish is certainly worth doing!

As for your draws, they are still there and in fine shape. I won't be the lowlife f--k who steals them. The anchor draw could use an upgrade and I will probably do this the next time I am up there.
By Bart Paull
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

tcam - Your beta seems impossible! Do you move to the crimp just to the left of the last bolt with your right hand with your left hand on the sloper with the slopey edge in the back? Heinous!
By Matt Whiteman
Aug 12, 2011

I placed several fixed chain draws on this route, and several on the right (HLAH) finish. Most of the draws that I removed are worthless – deteriorated dog bones and grooved biners. That being said, two of them are still in decent shape. Shoot me an email if you want them back
By Julio Jones
Jul 16, 2015

The next day I woke up feeling at peace. I knew that we were going to try again in the evening and was psyched. The last week had consisted of late nights and long days of doing nothing and just waiting for the moment in which this beast would go down. The mental and physical process started to put a toll on my body and mind. I knew that I could only withstand it for a bit longer before I had to bail and come back. This gave me even more motivation to put all of my chips on the table and go for it. That night there were multiple people that showed up to watch. My friend and I warmed up, and our session began. My friend is really close to sending this line as well. He had been working it for a few years and had done every hard crimp line in Clear Creek. He kept falling on the final jump move and could hang at the jump and take it to the top. I could tell that the fear aspect was not an issue for him. My friend cooled off and gave his first go. He made it to the final jump but could not stick it. I knew I had only a few goes. I approached the starting holds and set off. The rock did not feel as good compared to the other night, but my psyche took over. I felt more confident on the moves and was not thinking about the consequences. I was finally present with the line. I made it to the dyno and stuck the lip. My head did not race but immediately went into executing the final section. I started up the headwall and came to the same place as before. I did not hesitate this time and stuck the right hand razor. My fingers were numb and I sat there for a couple seconds to re adjust and feel some sort of bite. This was not working so I took it as is, brought my left foot onto a higher foothold and committed to the last iron cross move. I stuck this move and felt safe. My hands were still numb, but I was able to regain back some circulation for the final mantle. Once I arrived in the no hands, my survival instincts fully kicked in. At this point, I was committed and was forced to go to the top. I breathed slowly in and out through my nose to lower my heart rate and began the quest to the summit. All of my senses were firing in unison. I could feel the stillness of the air around me. I heard my toe rubber grind into each crystallized smear every step that I took. I could smell the rock and feel its energy. I was attached and not letting go. I stood on top of the Sex Cave beneath the stars and could faintly see the lantern light glowing down below. All of my serotonin was released, and I felt on cloud 9. I learned how to be present in the face of fear and accept it. Fear was not my enemy but my aid. This line tested many of my attitudes and took me on a crazy ride. Non-judging, patience, beginner's mind, trust, non-striving, acceptance, and letting go all appeared while projecting this line. I became present with these attitudes, took on the challenge, and became a better person because of it. After I got down, my friend gave a couple more tries. He got close but ended up splitting both index fingertips. We then popped some bottles and had a celebration under the Sex Cave.
By Jamie gatchalian
From: denver, co
Nov 5, 2015

Went back up on this one yesterday to re-familiarize myself with the moves...the left hand mini-jug way left of the last bolt is gone. Don't know when this broke, but now you have to yard off the crimp right next to the bolt. Significantly harder, maybe bumping it up a letter grade (13c/d)? Anyone else try it since the break?
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 9, 2015

Jamie, are you talking about the hold you would clip the anchors from? If so, I broke that a few years ago on my redpoint of one of the link-ups, mid-clip to the anchors, after skipping the last bolt. I screamed and grabbed the chains.
By Jamie gatchalian
From: denver, co
Nov 9, 2015

Ha! Would have loved to have heard that one, Adam! Doing the rough calculations, I wonder if one would deck if blowing the anchors after skipping the last bolt.

But the new hold that broke is the hold you dive into off the blocky undercling, just left of the last draw. It was that sharp, gaston mini-jug. It had been such a long time since I had been on that route that it took me a while to realize a hold was missing.
By BB121
From: Colorado
Nov 10, 2015
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

Jaimie, we broke it several weeks ago attempting to redpoint Rubble. Terribly disappointing! The hold itself is intact, sitting at the base of SCM. I attempted the move after the break. It does seem doable, although the section feels at least one or two V Grades harder than before. If anyone wants to glue it back on, I think you may be able to secure it close to its original position. Not knowing the guys who bolted this and how they would feel, we just left it in a conspicuous place.
On a more positive note, we were able to send "Rubble Head", which climbs through Rubble and finishes on Head Like a Hole. Similar difficulty to the original line.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About