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Bends (a.k.a. Decompression Sickness), The S 
Grippin' the Cutlass S 
High Tide S 
Parrot Bay S 
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Serpant's Rising S 
Stomping the Cleaver T,S 
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Stomping the Cleaver 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy, rope solo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 273
Submitted By: paul pomeroy on Jul 22, 2012

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Description 

Scramble up some ledges on the left hand side of the crag to a small pillar. Gingerly surmount this feature, lean right and clip the first bolt. Traverse slightly right and pull a small roof (crux) then head back left to the arete. Climb the arete, switching sides as necessary, to a two bolt anchor on the left. Stop here for the sport route. For those with gear and gumption continue past the anchor to the large ledge and set a belay at the base of the left hand crack. Climb this crack (10.b PG 13) to the summit and a cable anchor. Rap from here to the anchors on Grippin', then to the ground. Expect some loose stuff on both pitches - I did alot of cleaning but only time and traffic will really clean these up. So if you can't handle a little choss pick a different route. That being said the climbing and the position are both excellent.

Location 

Stomping the Cleaver lies on the left hand side of the west face of the Crosswinds Crag immediately left of Grippin' the Cutlass. Approach as for Wizard's Gate but just before you reach the base of the wall follow cairns to the north past Castaway Crag to Crosswinds.

Protection 

9 bolts plus two for the anchor (p. 1). Medium and large stoppers and a large (#3?) Friend for p. 2.


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