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Stochasticity 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andrew Hughes and Justin Partin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 525
Submitted By: Tom Cruise on Jul 11, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: First two pitches are in view. Once on top of the ...

Description 

Stochasticity is a new addition to the Quarry Wall!

The first pitch feels about the same difficulty as Bridge of Air. The crux maybe height dependend, time will tell. Not going to lie... This route is awesome!

Pitch 1. This is the crux (5 bolts), 35m. A short but desperate seam and crimp section gets you to a crack. Climb the crack, then step left at a bolt. Climb up to 2 fixed nuts, and then initiate a secondary crux of liebacking. Traverse right to a good belay ledge. 1 fixed tricam marks the belay (save your # 1 cam for the anchor).

Pitch 2. Climb up to a fixed nut, then blast an awesome portion of 10- R underclinging to a mantel. Access a ledge, then climb the crack. Clip a bolt, then pull a couple of hero moves. 5.9 R peg climbing gets you to a good stance at another fixed tricam, 5.11.

Pitch 3. Climb up a seam via 3 bolts and a fixed RP. After the second bolt, it is 5.8 R to the third. Clip the 3rd, then pull a roof. Go up the lichen slab until you see a left-angling crack system that will take you to the top. This is awesome 5.11.

Right now the anchors consist of one passive piece with a mallion for rapping. If anyone wants to bolt anchors, go for it.

Location 

It is to the right of Rite of Passage.

Protection 

A single rack to #1 (# 2 optional). Bring an extra #0.75. I placed one medium-sized nut (the crucial ones are fixed). Bring 4 quickdraws, 8-10 runner, and a 70 meter rope (rappeling this route in its current state is not recommended).


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