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Doupianifels
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Östkante 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Hasse & Stutte 1976
Season: dry (spring and/or fall best)
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Dec 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: East Ridge of Doupianifels (on the left skyline).

Description 

Classic line up the East Ridge. Great position, good views, tightly bolted crux, runout easier sections.

Pitch 1: scramble up the easy ridge with 3 protection bolts. 5.4 40m.

Pitch 2: up ridge passing two bolts in 25 meters. 5.5.

Pitch 3: Either traverse straight left on big holds to a groove (5.8ish) or angle up passing a bolt to the base of a shallow trough (5.7ish). Finish up groove, passing several trees, to belay. 2 bolts in 25m.

Pitch 4: Crux pitch. Climb up steep rock and some large cobbles. Tightly bolted for the area. 5 lead bolts in 35m. 5.10a or 5.8+/A0.

Neat summit with great views.

Location 

The very obvious and dramatic East Ridge of Doupianifels. Start right at the toe of the ridge with a low angle scramble. Rappel route.

We did manage, in a juicy rainstorm, to rappel the route in 4 30 m rappels, but, I seem to recall we used anchors to climber's right for the last two rappels and ended up in the trees/weeds to the climber's right of the east ridge.

Protection 

Sparsely bolted, but, tightly bolted at the crux. There are some trees near the top of pitch 3 that can be slung for protection. Fixed anchors are large single glued-in rings.


Photos of Östkante Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ostkante follows the obvious left ridge.  You can ...
Ostkante follows the obvious left ridge. You can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stepping up for the crux of Ostkante on pitch 4.
Stepping up for the crux of Ostkante on pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing pitch two of Ostkante.
Climbing pitch two of Ostkante.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch two anchor on Ostkante.  Standard fare in Me...
Pitch two anchor on Ostkante. Standard fare in Me...

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