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s. The Golden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Stinky Americans 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,322
Submitted By: doligo on Aug 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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At the crux.


Start a couple of feet left of Slot Machine (the huge off-width in the middle of the wall). A bouldery start leads to to a stance; follow a finger crack to the top (crux). It's 5.5 horizontals after the crux.

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By Denis O'Connor
Mar 9, 2010

This route is leadable at PG.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 30, 2010

Deceptively tricky crux. Personally, I thought this climb was harder than fickle fingers and golden dream.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 28, 2011

Maybe you were inadvertently on "Completely Francois" (5.10d)?

Edit - Disregard that...CF is not close enough to get involved.

I did notice that it matters which side of the vertical crack you're on. One side might be quite straightforward if you're really tall. Otherwise, you're going to have to work a bit. I'd call this 9+ the way I did it (I'm not esp. tall) but anyone who couldn't reach what I did would be in solid 5.10 territory.

Also, the start is not "a couple feet left of SM". It's almost at the arete (left end of the face).
By Anthony Nguyen
From: Philadelphia
Nov 18, 2011

I also think this is more difficult than Golden Dream, especially if you are height disadvantaged. It's also fun to climb the face with side pulls on the left arete. 9+

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