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Stigmata T 

Stigmata 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: FA 1986 Jim Opdycke, FFA 1991 Dave Dick
Season: Non-Rainy
Page Views: 951
Submitted By: Colin Parker on Jun 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Stigmata

Description 

This route starts in the next corner to the left of Ripper. It ascends a series of juggy ledges for about sixty unremarkable feet to the anchors.
There is now a fun second pitch (FFA Dave Dick), with good views and rock up above Stigmata. Once at the Stigmata anchors, belay your partner up, and then climb up and left following bolts and a couple of gear placements to the top. 5.8

Location 

Left of Ripper. Starts in a corner/crack system.

Protection 

Gear to 3"


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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 5, 2011

I entered the route with the guidebook grade but it definitely felt more like 5.6 to me.
By Josh Golden Eagle
Jul 15, 2013

Beware of loose rock on this. I recommend your belayer stands under the overhang.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Aug 10, 2013

I don't recommend anyone do this route on purpose. Loose rock and utterly boring climbing make this route a complete PASS.
By Obi
From: Portland, OR
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Loose and dirty. A couple of 5th class moves at the start and end of the route with what is effectively 4th class movement in between makes this barely a single start for me (I'm feeling lenient tonight).
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jan 22, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I was actually pleasantly surprised by this route. Lead it for a friend today, and while its no 5 star route, it protects well, and features climbing that is easy enough for a beginner, but is still enough climbing to make it fun for them. I'd recommend it as a first 5.7 lead for a beginning trad climber.
By cconradd
From: Washougal, WA
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Does anyone know the rating of the bolted route above stigmata?

EDIT - looks like 5.8.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Feb 1, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route above Stigmata goes almost to the top, has 3 bolts and a couple optional gear placements, and goes at 5.8. FFA Dave Dick
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The route that goes as a second pitch to Stigmata or its neighbor, Flayel Bop (5.7), is called Pandora's Box (5.8)

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