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Stigmata T 

Stigmata 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1997
Page Views: 2,016
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: Stigmata

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  • Description 

    This is the diagonal finger crack on the right side of The Clipboard. The crack itself gobbles small wires and RPs, and there is a single bolt up high. The shameless can clip the first two bolts on the route to the left to get started.

    Protection 

    1 bolt and gear to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Stigmata Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the route.
    Low on the route.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Carol Kotchek at the bolt near the top of Stigmata...
    Carol Kotchek at the bolt near the top of Stigmata...

    Comments on Stigmata Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By shad O'Neel
    Jul 23, 2003

    super fun moves, but pretty short. not too hard for a 5.10
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 14, 2003
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Why the bolt? It's easy up there, and there's good gear at your knees as you start the final, relatively easy (7 or 8) wide crack.
    By willem
    Aug 5, 2004

    i know the shameless can clip the bolts. but how about the just plain chicken? are they allowed to?
    By Richard Rossiter
    Sep 28, 2004

    OK. OK. About the solitary bolt... If you look at the photo (above) you will see that the big flake that forms the right side of the final crack is detached. I decided to place a bolt on the left wall in case the flake ever came loose. At least you will still be attached to the wall, and if your belayer becomes road kill, you can still get down safely.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 28, 2005
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I really wish this wall had been tall and skinny instead of short and fat. This is the third route on the wall, and the third route on great rock with great moves. It's also the third route to be only about a third of a route long: about 12 meters... The gear- do you like stoppers or TCU's? A single rack of either + a quickdraw will get you up the route cleanly.
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Aug 28, 2005
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Eats small Aliens...
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 23, 2005

    Young Doug..Isn't the name of this route "The Stigma" ? This is a very fine piece of granite..this route, it's neighbors, and all of those on the west are really a lot of fun! A good day is to bag all of the lines on this square buttress. Rossiter has a knack for finding some great routes.
    By Brenda Leach
    Sep 29, 2005
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

    Fun route. Too bad it's not a little longer. I led it today and felt like it was no harder than a 5.9-, max. I suppose if you try to keep both your hands and feet in the crack, that'd make it harder (much). But, there's too many options for your feet on the face. Well worth doing, though.
    By claytown
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 2, 2007

    Small wires and Aliens. Fun route with good gear. Just wish it was longer.

    CL
    By Travis Provin
    From: Boulder CO
    Jul 16, 2016

    Even cleaning this route on top route, I felt it to be hard. The moves are there, but it was difficult for me, even my partner took a lead fall on it. I would call it a 5.10+ for sure.

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