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Stifflers Stiffy 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Starr, Tyler Phillips, Luke Douglas 06'
New Route: Yes
Season: any but winter
Page Views: 2,945
Submitted By: TylerPhillips on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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The "sun in the eyes crux"

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  • Description 

    The 3rd pitch var. to Stifflers Mom, Try to refrain from climbing the nice flake on the 3rd pitch of Stifflers and shuffle out left. The bolt line is obvious.

    Continue up Stifflers, or descend via, 3 single rope raps to the ground.


    Draws, #1 camalot or .75 camalot, small stoppers for the top.


    Begin on Stifflers Mom then break off left at pitch three. See topo

    Comments on Stifflers Stiffy Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ty Gregory
    From: Salt Lake City
    Jun 16, 2009

    This pitch is awesome, I think more people should try it because it is a tad slippery due to the ancient lichen. Awfully balancy.
    By Tim Wolfe
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 31, 2010
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Stunning and unique variation. Different from many LCC routes. A worthy outing.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Aug 15, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Great variation. Unfortunately, it happens to be a variation to the best pitch of Stiffler's, but, fortunately, it's a nice harder pitch with varied climbing - slab moves, balancy stuff, a lieback section, face climbing, and a thin finger crack.

    I found a .75 BD and a red TCU to be handy in the middle, and micro cams up top.
    By Andrew Brodhead
    May 31, 2017
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Great pitch!

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