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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

Sticky Feet 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Harrison, Meyers, 1981
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: Guy H. on May 21, 2011

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One party on P3 of the Bulge and Sticky Feet lower...

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  • Description 

    Sticky Feet is located just to the right of The Bulge and sees very little traffic. The climbing is adventurous and requires a bit of route finding for the onsight. The climbing on the crux pitch is well protected, but the first pitch has some big runouts on ~5.7 climbing. It is a slight step up from Shades of Gray with a similar style of climbing.

    P1: Head straight up with multiple 5.8 cruxes through overlaps. All of the crux moves have "sticky feet". You will pass a rotten chickenhead on the left about halfway up the pitch. There is a 25 foot runout on 5.7 climbing near the top of the pitch. Belay on the right side of the scoop (5.8, 5.7R/X, 100 feet).

    P2: Angle left through the overhanging wall and pull the lip at a huge bucket. Continue up well-protected rock to a bolt to where the angle eases with runout 5.5 climbing (5.9, 100 feet).

    P3: Angle right to easy 5th class to the walk-off (5.4, 150 feet).

    The first two pitches can be combined with a 60/70m rope, but you will need a triple set of finger-size cams.

    Location 

    Sticky Feet starts about half up the scramble to The Bulge Wall.

    Protection 

    Gear to #3, with extra finger-size cams for overlaps.


    Photos of Sticky Feet Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux on Sticky Feet.  This guy pulled...
    Starting the crux on Sticky Feet. This guy pulled...

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