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Caught in the Act T 
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Welcome to Big Baldy T 
Young Eagle T 

Stickup 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A0 [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: limpingcrab on Apr 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Getting close to the roof at the top of pitch two

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There isn't really any aid on the route but I top-rope soloed this climb and pulled on a draw at the crux, so I'll leave it at 5.10+ A0 until I lead it and get a better idea. Let me know if you know the real name, who did the FA, or if you lead it and get a better idea of the difficulty. I just felt like adding the furthest left (Spine Line) and furthest right (this one) climbs to start.

This climb has a variety of starts and climbs into a beautiful, clean corner with a finger crack, finishing with an easier corner and some knobs high up. The first and last pitches are relatively easy, while the second pitch has a difficult bolt protected crux where the corner closes off and turns into a roof.

P1: This pitch climbs past the small pine tree, up large blocks and to a three bolt anchor at the start of the corner. Choose any variation, including a traverse in from the east or ascending a number of ways from below.

P2: Climb the corner to the roof, pulling this roof if the crux and leads to another two bolt anchor. There's a bolt under it but a larger cam fits above the bolt under the roof. A clean corner, delicate slab, and a wild move over the left side of the roof makes this pitch an exciting one!

P3: From the bolts make your way up the left-facing corners and onto to the knobby face beyond.
P3 Variation: Climb up easy but runout knobs above the belay, slinging them as you go.

Location 

Easiest to descend down the east side from the summit. As you round the east face to the south face, look for a small pine tree about 60 ft off the ground. The first pitch climbs past this tree and ascends the left-facing corner above it.

Protection 

Cams up to 3", a set of nuts, and some runners to avoid rope drag over the roof. Emphasis on small stuff. First anchor is three bolts, second is two bolts and the last is natural.


Photos of Stickup Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down part of pitch two
Looking down part of pitch two
Rock Climbing Photo: There's the pine tree in the upper right!  Get to ...
There's the pine tree in the upper right! Get to ...

Comments on Stickup Add Comment
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By Nathan W.
From: Sequoia NP, CA
Sep 13, 2013

I think this might be Welcome to Big Baldy(5.11). it sounds like it, to me at least, and It's the right-most route on the Big B. And if so than the FA is Richard and Laeger september '86
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Sep 14, 2013

Ya it sounds like Welcome To Big Baldy from my description but this climb is on the south east face and WTBB is on the south end of the west face. This climb has a much easier first pitch and was done after the old SEKI guide was published which is why I don't know who did it.

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