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Sticks and Stones
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Sticks and Stones T 

Sticks and Stones 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Pettigrew, Will Tyree and Phil Bircheff, January 1972
Page Views: 99
Submitted By: john durr on Jul 25, 2009

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Sticks and Stones is the main crack in the center ...

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  • Description 

    This is a varied and physical crack climb with everything from thin fingers to fist, but mostly really nice fingers and thin hands. It was much better than it looked from the base.

    Three short pitches are recommended because you are likely to get rope drag.

    Pitch 1 climb up to the bush, liebacking a wide bit (great #4 camelot here). Lieback past a insecure chimney to a finger/thin hand crack. Continue to a great ledge with a gear belay of small to medium cams. Excellent sustained climbing with great gear 5.10-.

    Pitch 2 continue up the finger crack corner as it widens to off width, past a great knob. Gear belay just above the bulge on a great ledge. 5.9-.

    Pitch 3 continue up the infrequent incipient finger crack with perfect small cams for gear and big knobs. 5.8-. Wrap some blocks on top for a belay.

    Location 

    This route is on the right center of Sticks and Stone cliff, it is the obvious crack with a bush at the bottom.

    Protection 

    Standard rack to 4" cam, include extra small cams to 2". No bolts or bolted belays.

    Descend by rappeling 60 meters (two ropes) from the anchor above Friends in High Places or walk down east along the edge of the cliff.


    Comments on Sticks and Stones Add Comment
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    By C-Tuttle
    Sep 29, 2010

    Wet bush... Bring your gardening gloves.

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