REI Community
Green Valley Gap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12 Gauge Conversion TR 
2 Weeks Notice S 
Australian Monk T 
Bare Necessities S 
Beggars and Choosers S 
Benefit of the Doubt S 
Bitter Recriminations S 
Brazilian Ninjas T,TR 
Butterflies Arete TR 
Chinese Gauncho T 
Cool Katz S 
Damned If You Do TR 
Damned If You Don't TR 
Dueling Grandmas S 
Factional Infighting TR 
Fat Black Chuck S 
Flue Shot S 
Hair Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hairy Virgin TR 
Hue and Cry S 
I'm hungry, I've got to poop! S 
Inquisition, The S 
Jezabel T 
Knee Replacement S 
Lamenites S 
Lincoln's Lament T 
Luck of the Irish S 
Moral Dilemma S,TR 
Nemesis S 
Nephites S 
Not Arrgh S 
Pain in the Cass! S 
Parking Slot TR 
Perky's Playground S 
Presidential Centerfold T 
Presidential Warfare T 
Puppet Strings S 
Quickening, The S 
Redneck Wonderland S 
Rock!! n' Roll T 
Roosterhead Ridge TR 
Sand Stoner Reverse S 
Short and Dorky S 
Shotgun Baptism S 
Skin Graft S 
Stick to your Guns S 
Tape Up 
Unknown T,TR 
Washingtons' Wig T 
Wave, The S,TR 
West Wave TR 
Where Egos Dare S 

Stick to your Guns 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Season: Fall, Winter
Page Views: 2,416
Submitted By: Chuck on Aug 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jeremy Steck on Stick to Your Guns.


This route starts under a 15' long roof. Use the crack around the left corner for your hands. At the third bolt drop down under the roof. The holds here have been cemented to keep them from breaking off. The crux is from here to the next bolt. follow the arete up to a 2 chain anchor.


About 100 yard from west end of gap on south facing wall. This route in immediately right of Hair Today Gone Tomorrow. It is the most obvious roof with three bolts under the roof.


Five draws plus anchor
Fixed Bolts. 2 Chain anchor

Photos of Stick to your Guns Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the start looking out the climb.
View from the start looking out the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some holds are reinforced with concrete
Some holds are reinforced with concrete
Rock Climbing Photo: Robear on the first moves
Robear on the first moves
Rock Climbing Photo: Passing the crux
Passing the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux
The crux

Comments on Stick to your Guns Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 11, 2007

This is not a project...The roof is very easy, and contrived....the crux is turning the lip.
By ZachBradford
Mar 18, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The route is named "Stick to your Guns"

FA: T. Goss, D. Biniaz
Goss Guide Book gives it a 12c.
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route is very fun, regardless of the grade or glued holds. It might be a good idea to anchor the belayer to prevent a possible ground fall if the climber was to fall when turning the lip or fumbling the clip above the lip.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Mar 7, 2011

12a seems about right for this climb. I felt is was easier then sandstoner reverse though, so could be 11d. 12c is very generous. Super fun climb.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Mar 30, 2011

Any beta on how to turn the lip? what are the holds like above the lip? Where should you clip from once you come around it?
By ZachBradford
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Beta at lip is the crux toss to a deep 2-3 finger pocket. Then proceed up the face on the best holds you can find. They are better to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About