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(05) The Transition Zone
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Stick To Stucco 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Deborah Evans, Steven Hofmeyr, and Bernard Moret
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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This route is 15 feet to the right of Wavy Gravy, and the first route on the wall. The start is bulging and climbs a narrow grey slab to the left of the bolts, and you eventually find yourself right of the bolts. Pass between two small bushes higher up. Smearing and friction. Nice Route!


5 bolts to anchors.

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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Apr 27, 2009

good climb though you never reall climb the bolt line. Start out left of the bolts then move to the right. Follow the crack to the right then step left again to a flake at the anchor.
By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2009

This is a fun route with some good variations.

1. The short hand crack right of the start makes for nice jams(~9). Join Stucco above the 3rd bolt.

2. At second bolt, move right of the bolt, up the small nose and then onto the ledge up and right of the third bolt. Not sure I'd recommend this over the direct version but it is a harder lead with some good slab climbing.

Us old farts also like to take a 1/2 - 3/4 sized TCU and plug it up in the crack between 4th and 5th bolts.
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 27, 2009

A very good route. For someone like me (not comfortable on these low angle routes) it is an excellent mental exercise.
By Lee H
From: Albuqueruqe,NM
May 4, 2015

This is a great route to practice slab. It seems different every time I've got on it, and I've only finished it without falling once (out of 4 tries). Have fun on the bottom section, because if you're not comfortable on slab the upper section will get your adrenaline going.

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