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Steve Carruthers Memorial 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Season: Spring, Winter, Fall
Page Views: 5,723
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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The late Steve Carruthers (1980's) passing the fle...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


AKA: SC Memorial, This is a spectacular climb. Your rope will be stretched getting to the anchors and your thumbs will be pumped senseless. The crack begins with hands but quickly moves to cupped hands for infinity.


The SC memorial route is located to the right of Karin's Corner and around the corner of Fatted Calf.


Cams to #4 Camalot with extra #3.5 Camalots.
Anchors at the top.

Photos of Steve Carruthers Memorial Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...
The late Steve Carruthers nearing the end of Stick...
Rock Climbing Photo: If you are the first guy of the season on the SC M...
If you are the first guy of the season on the SC M...
Rock Climbing Photo: let's get physical, on SC Memorial route photo by ...
let's get physical, on SC Memorial route photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: the route... well almost all of it
the route... well almost all of it
Rock Climbing Photo: just out of the pod into the upper splitter. i tho...
just out of the pod into the upper splitter. i tho...
Rock Climbing Photo: climbers on Karin's Corner on left and S.C. Memori...
climbers on Karin's Corner on left and S.C. Memori...
Rock Climbing Photo: 160 ft of cups?  Epic enduro splitter.
160 ft of cups? Epic enduro splitter.

Comments on Steve Carruthers Memorial Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 31, 2007

My rack beta (in old Camalots): 1 #1, 2 #2s, 8-10 #3s, 2-4 #3.5s (most of the way 3.5s would be pretty crammed in, but there are a couple of wider spots.) The #1 is for the very top but you'll probably be too pumped to place it.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jan 13, 2008

Does anyone know the details behind Steve Caruthers? I know that he did quite a few hard FA's in the desert, and I assume that he is now deceased, but what else?
By brian ivins
Aug 16, 2008

Steve Carruthers was a hard climber and skier who died in a Utah backcountry avalanche.
I think it happened in Wolverine Cirque, but I'm not positive.
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Aug 16, 2008

Yep. I think they were headed up from Butler Fork in BCC to Baker Pass. Some bad terrain in there. Had a beer with Steve in a friend's kitchen the week before. I'm always reminded of him when I use the bathroom at IME (he has some photo's on the wall in there). RIP.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 16, 2008

Looks soooooooooooooooooooooo good! There were a dozen people there that day and they all wanted to give it a go, next time.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 20, 2009

did this with one 3.5 and lots of 3's... having at least two 3.5's is recomended. also a new 4 can be placed. super stellar route
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 19, 2010

I was the first guy of the year on this thing, the crack was absolutely filthy. both walls of the crack totally coated with sandy runoff. Sand in the hair, sand in the eyes, big fun. Good news for you guys is that my epic ascent scrubbed it a bit and it is good to go. What a crack!
By slim
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

the first time i did this route, i was in the same boat. i remember dumping a bunch of sand right into my eyes and climbing for probably 40 feet or more with my eyes closed. i totally couldn't get the sand out, it was horrible. it is a much nicer route when it is clean, for sure.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 22, 2010

too funny slim, I was totally there. My vision was blurry for the rest of the day from the sand and dirt in my eyes under my contacts. My partner thought this was a bit of a hoot, and snapped a photo which really captured the zeitgeist, which I just uploaded.
By Shawn Carter
Oct 10, 2013

Steve was one of my best friends. He passed away on the S.W. face of Gobblers Nob while ski touring with another friend and my brother in-law. They were crossing a small avi path which sympathetically trigger from above. He was the last across and was swept into some fairly thick aspen trees. I was so devastated that I could not even speak at his memorial at Silver Fork Lodge. If you want more information about Steve send me a pm. love
By slim
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

this is definitely one of the 5 star mega routes of the desert, and a fitting tribute to a desert legend.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Nov 5, 2013

What a line! Got to do this on my last day this trip. Hiked up there for this one a few years back with a pack full of #3BDs and 4 friends but the route was being top roped the whole day by a giant party. Had to go back this trip and it was so worth it.

A few good hand jams lead to endless cups. The pods give you great rests but were also, for me, the cruxes climbing past them. I was able to keep the pump factor at bay with rests in the pods and even a no hands knee up high. Finish with good hands so save a 2.

Thanks for the history on Steve, a loss to many.
By Matt Enlow
From: Wyoming
Dec 13, 2015

If you're just totally worked, a .5 at the very end can make your head feel better.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Do cups splitters get any better than this? 5 stars.
It is useful to have at least 7-8 #3 and 2 #3.5 camalots or #4 friends for this route in addition to a couple #2 camalots.
The crack size is really baggy 3s or very tight 3.5s for much of the crack. Furthermore, the crack flares outward slightly but also opens up to the inside, so jamming and gear placements require more thought than one would expect.
I found it very helpful to pre-sling all of the gear with quickdraws to help keep the rope out of the crack. Since the splitter is frequently more of a slot, this helps prevent pinching the rope in the back of the crack with your feet.

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