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Stetinden

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Sydpillaren (South Pillar) T 

Stetinden Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 4,600'
Location: 68.17674, 16.54936 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,228
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 18, 2008
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Wind plume coming off Stetinden the day before my ...

Description 

Sitting far above the Arctic Circle, Stetinden basks in the midnight sun during the summer, and hulks in twilight during the winter.
There are many routes on the mountain, but most people summit via the Regular Route, a traverse of the SE ridge. The South Pillar Route is perhaps the most pleasant ascent route, ascending 13+ pitches of immaculate granite.
Keep in mind that the wind and weather varies rapidly. Tents pitched insecurely at the pull-off have been lost to fjord when sudden wind-gusts sent them flying. Although I had perfect weather for my ascent, rain is common; in fact it rained a few hours after I returned to camp.

Getting There 

From the south, take the E-6 to the turn-off for the town of Drag and take the ferry to Kjopsvik. Drive out of town - there is only one road - and head north. Go through three tunnels and stop at the parking area a short distance from the fourth; a rock monument lies beside the road and a sign announces "Stetinden."

Climbing Season

For the Norway area.

Weather station 22.4 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Stetinden
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the route from the approach

Sydpillaren (South Pillar) 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Europe : Norway : Stetinden
A classic route well worth its reputation. From a distance it looks inaccessible from where the route twists its way up the large granite slabs on the pillar in the middle of the south wall, but a system of shelves allow approach to the base of the pillar and the start of the route. Two other large shelving systems, the First and the Second Amphi cross the further up.Rockfax has published a free miniguide with excellent approach and descent information, as well as a topo:miniguide....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Stetinden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stetinden, seen from the approach trail. The Regul...
Stetinden, seen from the approach trail. The Regul...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking over Elveran to Kjopsvik from the summit o...
Looking over Elveran to Kjopsvik from the summit o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view from beside the summit cairn, looking...
Another view from beside the summit cairn, looking...
Rock Climbing Photo: Self-portrait on Stetinden Summit. I was the only ...
Self-portrait on Stetinden Summit. I was the only ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking toward the summit of Stetinden from shortl...
Looking toward the summit of Stetinden from shortl...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the scree slope just below Hall's Fortop...
View from the scree slope just below Hall's Fortop...
Rock Climbing Photo: The South Pillar Route of Stetinden. Most parties ...
The South Pillar Route of Stetinden. Most parties ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Birch Glade on the trail leading to the Stetinden ...
Birch Glade on the trail leading to the Stetinden ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset at Stetinden "Base Camp," the par...
Sunset at Stetinden "Base Camp," the par...

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