REI Community
Main Wall, left side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amandla S 
Batskins T,S 
Bwana Dik T,S 
City Park T 
City Park Bolt Ladder S 
Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters T 
Dwarf Tossing T 
Frog Pond T 
Frog Prince T,S 
Full Horse Power T 
Godzilla T 
Iron Horse T 
Iron Horse P2 T 
It's a Dog's Life, but You Can Picnic with Us T,TR 
Japanese Gardens T 
Klaus Von Bulow and the Algorithm of Love  T 
Le Grande Bleu T,TR 
Model Worker T 
Nobody Tosses A Dwarf! T 
Numbah Ten S 
Numbah Ten P3 T 
Park Ranger T 
Princely Ambitions T 
Sagittarius T 
Slow Children T 
Stern Farmer T 
Sushi Farmer T 
Tadpole T 
Tantric Bazooka T 
Tommy's Sandbox T 
TPMV (10% Meteorological Vinculation) T 

Stern Farmer 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FFA P1: Terry Lien, Tom Michael. P2: Mike Schaeffer (as one long pitch from the ground)
Page Views: 4,670
Submitted By: Ryan Triplett on May 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Stern farmer is a fun aid climb as well that goes ...

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Climb the initial section of Japanese Gardens until you can protect the rightward entry moves with a bolt (at the chalkstone halfway up the hands section ). At this point the climb turns strenuous and technical. Once established in the corner climb through hard moves up to an obvious pin scar, from here another challenging section leads to a purely fun .11 finger crack to the chains. The second pitch has now been freed at .12d (I think), though I have never tried, so don't hold me to that.


Start as for Japanese Gardens. From the ground it is the obviously difficult looking right facing corner that trends rightward off of Japanese Gardens.


Protection is thin, but there. Everyone that I know seems to protect this testpiece a bit different. It is all there, just not the most obvious.

Comments on Stern Farmer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

The "full" Stern Farmer (.12c/d?) is a combination of the original first and second pitches climbed in one pitch from the ground. Above the first anchor, a difficult move enters a flared chimney (standard Index f[l]are). An excellent Yellow Alien and, higher up, some fixed mank, protect the flare. An airy roof move exits the chimney; above, fixed copperheads and some good 00-0 size TCU's protect a hard (.11+) balance move above. A bolt then protects moves to the anchor. This extension/combination should not be missed!
By JamesLucas Lucas
Feb 4, 2012

In Index the locals spell sandbag s-t-e-r-n
By blakeherrington
Feb 9, 2013

Yet another variation on p1 is to move left after the anchor and reach the 2nd crux of Japanese gardens from directly below, climbing out the flake. I've heard this variation called "Sushi Farmer" and you'll want whatever gear you like on P1 Stern, plus a hand and finger cam and a few long slings. If both of these climbs were already 4-stars, this variation is off the end of the quality scale.

P2 Stern Farmer ~5.12a - A mellow finger lock and a compression move or two lead to a powerful pull establishing up into the chimney/stem. There's a good-looking fixed head you can clip before the crux unless your're short. Since this crux might result in fall to the p2 belay stance, consider linking p1+p2 or lowering the belayer to a nice no-hand stance a few meters beneath the anchor. After getting into the chimney, a good fixed wire ( and later 2 fixed pins) protect tenuous flare chimney work, using knobs for feet, the hardest move is at mid height where there are no knobs for a second and your chicken wing skills get a test. Pull out of the chimney on a jug rail ( small cam) and face climb straight left past a bolt to the anchors atop p1 J. Gardens (VAR) or mantle up and right, joining P2 of batskins below the .11d crux move, (the 'fixed' heads all fell out in 2014) and finish via that pitch, which ends 10-15m directly above the anchors of p1 J gardens.

Gear P2- single set from purple c3 / grey TCU to purple camalot, and a few runners.
By MorganH
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

Specific gear for the sushi farmer ending is one #2 C4, and one green alien, and one red alien for after the crimp move at the top of JG if you like to place a piece up there.
By MorganH
Jan 31, 2014
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

Spoiler alert, beta in this video.

Stern farmer video
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
May 9, 2014

Thanks Morgan for posting that video. Amazing job on the route - beautiful!
By Stamati Anagnostou
Sep 14, 2014

seriously cool.i can't wait til i can do this one.
By kerwinl
Oct 26, 2015

The sushi farmer linkup is so good it deserves to be listed as its own route. If you can climb Stern, definitely bring the extra pieces and enjoy the full 35M of what index does best!
By Stamati
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 22, 2016
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Sushi Farmer is THE way to end this pitch. Admittedly, I haven't tried the extension, but there's no way it could be better :)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About