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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Adrenaline Surfer S 
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Buckspeck S 
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Hourglass, The T 
Maid in the Shade T 
Missed Opportunity T 
New Wave T 
Patent Pending T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Soaring T,S 
Spectator Sport T 
Stepping Out of Flatland T 
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Team Ropin S 
Witchie T 

Stepping Out of Flatland 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 141
Submitted By: t.schwartz on Dec 12, 2015

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June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb Buckspeck, belay at bolts on a nice sloping ledge. The bolt line to the left is Team Ropin', the bolt line to right is Stepping. Description only for the first pitch, second pitch looks like stemming with bolts.

This climb is unique for the Tower and is many crimping on positive edges and side-pullng around aretes. It wanders across two columns on the face and utilizes the crack only occasionally for couple tasty locks and supplemental gear.

Climb up and right to the crack off the belay. Follow the bolt line on the face edge, crimp, and side-pull around the arete. Move back onto the face and left towards the crack. Place gear and embrace some locks. Keep moving up and left towards the bolted belay, same as for Team Ropin'.

This pitch along Buckspeck and Team Ropin' makes a nice Euro ending in the shade, when your cuticles and head want a break.

Location 

Above Buckspeck, Look for a bolted face to a dihedral beneath a roof.

Protection 

Mostly bolts, probably could get away with a set of nuts and brass or a set offset cams to supplement the fixed gear. Less than five placements. Fixed anchors.


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By t.schwartz
Dec 21, 2015

I'm guessing this is a Dirty Dingus creation...

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