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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 227
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Sep 9, 2013

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Julien on the 5.8 cop-out

Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>


On a small perch of rock, you will have a crimpy face in front of you, and a 3" crack on the right. Either follow bolts straight up the face with lots of discontinuous finger cracks, or stay left and follow the dihedral. You can continue up the dihedral for the easiest (trad-protectable) finish or pull one technical move (10b) from a big pocket to some crimps and a rail. Then step up and clip the anchors.

You could also step right to the route Stairway to Heaven, which ends at the same anchor but goes up the big flakes and thin, shallow crack, then steps back left.


The last bolted route on the left side of the School Gate, on the most uphill side before it turns into razor plant territory.


Gear to 3"
316 steel (2006)

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By Huang Li Ting
Dec 4, 2014

My very first climb , 10b version is pretty fun if you like balancy stuff.

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