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West Corner 

Step Up 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: year round
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Aaron Formella on Oct 21, 2013

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Description 

Start to the right of Chimney Crack. Climb directly up to the anchor of Step Aside on sloping edges. This route is fun and challenging. The crux is down low on the climb but the crimping is sustained over it's short length. I've heard the crimps down low described as trying to grab "rounded ice cubes." One of the best at Rocklands and certainly the most physically challenging.

Location 

First climb to the right of Chimney Crack at the Rocklands area of Cerro Cabrillo.

Protection 

Toprope only. It would make a fun lead if it were bolted.


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By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Oct 21, 2013

Anyone know the story behind the old rusty chopped bolt at the base of this climb? Would anyone be opposed to making this into a lead climb by adding a few bolts?
By A Johnson
From: Paso Robles
Apr 13, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Please do! This is the best route in Rocklands and the area could use harder leads.
By Sean P. Sullivan
From: Clovis, Ca
Mar 1, 2016

This really would make a great lead! Aaron, have you looked more into making that happen?
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Mar 1, 2016

I've looked into it a little bit. It looks like it was bolted once before and the bolts were chopped for whatever reason. There are rusted studs remaining in the holes. It would be a tough lead since there aren't any good clipping holds or stances. The spacing between the old bolts 1 and 2 is too much and could result in a ground fall. If I were to rebolt this climb, I would try to use the existing holes which would require purchasing a core drill to bore around the existing studs and I would consider placing bolt 2 lower and making the existing old bolt 2 into bolt 3. I still would like to do this but the cost of a core-drilling adapter, bit, and water-cooling system is prohibitive of it currently. I agree that making this into a lead would really enhance the area, which has a relative paucity of harder lead climbs.

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