Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Kudos Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ambushed in the Night T 
Duppy Conquer S 
Get out of I-ret S 
Kreutzer , The S,TR 
Kudos S 
Step into the Light S 

Step into the Light 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brad Johnson and John Robinson
New Route: Yes
Season: all (except dead of winter)
Page Views: 2,896
Submitted By: John Robinson on May 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pulling the last moves

Description 

Just Left of Duppy Conqueror. See Mike Carville's 1991 guide book or the current topo on the main Emeralds page for information and location. Shade till 2 pm then shaded by trees. This climb gets a little harder if you are shorter. (Some reachy moves). After you get to the top of this climb it is easy to set up a top rope for the Climb just right (Duppy Conqueror 5.11c)

Protection 

7 or 8 bolts and lower off anchors


Photos of Step into the Light Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Kulchawik leading Step Into The Light.
Peter Kulchawik leading Step Into The Light.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew on Step Into the Light. One of his first ou...
BETA PHOTO: Andrew on Step Into the Light. One of his first ou...

Comments on Step into the Light Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2016
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Jul 12, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route! Super classic!
By Tibo
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Well bolted. Not PG13.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route. The bolting job during the climb is great, but the anchor is totally jingus. I'm a big fan of fat clip-and-go tow hooks (i.e. mussy hooks), but the rigs on this route are attached to the janky homemade hangers with small little pins. I just shook my head when I clipped these things...if I still lived in CA I would swap them out myself.
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
May 2, 2014

We added a bolt so this route is no longer PG13. Change out the top anchor if you wish
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
May 2, 2014

J. Albers: If the mussy hooks at the top are a problem. Some of the times when these were used the 1/4 inch pins were inserted upside down. If the head of the pin is facing the rock there is no way the pin can come out cause it will be held in by the rock, even if the small cotter key came out. Turn this pin around if you want (if it was placed wrong) or replace the whole thing if you want.
By Taylor Currier 1
From: South Lake Tahoe, California
Sep 19, 2014

This route was good fun. Well bolted and easy to TR the 11c next to it.
By Jazzy J. Arborcrumbler
Aug 26, 2015

Area classic. Great technical climbing. I would go out of my way to do this climb.
By Shaun Johnson
Apr 23, 2016

One of the best climbs at The Emeralds
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
May 26, 2016

If you blow it just before clipping the second bolt you will deck. Cruxy up top after the 6th bolt. Great climb!
By Christopher Clobus
May 31, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Solid route and bolted perfectly! I felt like it was more 10d but ratings all relative right? Right?!
By Tatiana C
From: Oakland, CA
Jun 19, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

What an amazing climb. Lots of different types of moves. I agree that if you slip before the second clip, you will almost certainly deck.

If you are under 5'8", this is more of a 10.d. In the middle of the climb, there is a left-leaning crack/flare with a small opening at the top of it large enough for 1-2 fingers. If you are under 5'8", you'll have to smear on what feels like nothing and jump for the hold to advance.
By Jiehan
Sep 25, 2016

Awesome climb! The compression move at the crux totally kicked my butt.
By John Robinson
Administrator
From: Elk Grove, ca
Nov 24, 2016

People are complaining that you will deck if you fall before clipping the second bolt. I don't think that is the case if you have an attentive belayer. (That second bolt was added after the climb was established, so just think of the decking potential without it). Climbing is a dangerous sport but certainly, Brad, Mike and I want it to be as safe as possible so give us more of your opinions on the fall potential before clipping the second bolt and we can adjust things if that is popular.