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Stems and Jammies 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: R Squared on Nov 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Enjoy the fun ride up.

Seasonal Raptor Closures.


This is a chimney climb. It has great gear placements all the way up. I'd say the crux is a small buldge about 3/4 the way up. Great climb to practice placements on.


Look for the obvious chimney about fifteen feet to the left when the trail ends.


No cams larger than a #2

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By K Baumgartner
Oct 6, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Nice introduction to the Black Cliffs. Good gear placements throughout. Think it's soft for the grade (more like 5.7). Trad led White Wash afterwards, which was way more difficult.
By Kirk B.
From: Boise, ID
Feb 20, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I concur. Fun route.
By S.Lee
Jun 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great way to learn how to jam!
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2014

Basically a sport climb with a crack in it. You don't even have to touch the crack if you don't want to. Takes lots of bigger gear (C4 #1-#3) but limitless options for gear placement and nice stances to place gear every few feet. Would be a low stress first trad lead. Easy stemming and jugs the whole way. Surprisingly fun!
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Feb 14, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I think this could only be considered 5.8 if you didn't jam for the entire pitch.
I kept waiting for the 5.8 move, and it never happened.
Also, because of the way the crack opens inside, hexes may be more useful than cams for the upper hand-crack.
By Cassidy Thomas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 20, 2016

It's a great route for a first trad lead. I find that the crack on the left zips up well with nuts, and the one on the right with cams. In August of 2016, I did a trip to the cliffs with a friend who its just starting to trad climb. As this was my first trad climb, I figured it would be a good one for her (she had already prated placing gear and such with climbing instructors. However, she got a little spooked about 2/3 of the way up and shoved a severely over-cammed #3 black diamond into the right crack (the cams are completely retracted). I really didn't want to leave it as an eye sore for everyone else and I tried for a long time with a variety of tactics to get it out but couldn't without damaging the rock (given the tools I had). I don't think it'll come out without doing considerable damage to the cam so no need to return it if you get it out. Sorry again for the eye sore.
By Nick Cesare
From: Boise, ID
Jun 12, 2017

It's possible to set up a top rope on this route after topping out along the Populace Wall. I topped out on Little Nest and walked over to the Stems and Jammies bolts with zero difficulties and no exposure.

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