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Stemroids 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: C Miller on Dec 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Riley Wyna on "Stemroids". Photo by Blit...

Description 

A series of balancy liebacks lead up to and past the first bolt, after which easier moves in the middle of the route lead to yet more liebacking past the third bolt, all of which should get you loosened up for the funky crux. Clip the last bolt, take a deep breath, and then commit to a series of awkward moves above the bolt with some good air potential if you pitch.

Technical and off-balance moves make this climb seem harder than it is, which is perhaps why it's not as popular as the neighboring routes.

Location 

This is the second route from the left and is located between White Head and White Out.

Protection 

5 bolts, shuts


Photos of Stemroids Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Will S - using the liback while going for the firs...
Will S - using the liback while going for the firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Stemroids". Photo by Blitzo.
"Stemroids". Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Maybe the "stem' part of Stemroids
Maybe the "stem' part of Stemroids

Comments on Stemroids Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Starting moves are technical and committing as you liback a finger crack. After clipping the 3rd bolt you naturally move left using another liback section. Moving beyond the 4th bolt is a bit strange as you are forced through awkward and less than positive side pulls to get to the anchor. This section provides much better feet than hands and stop shopping for better hands as they don't exist.

This route could have easily exited from the left after the liback crack. This would have been the natural line. As it is, the last few feet seem forced but is probably the 11a section of the route. Had it taken the natural line the route most likely wouldn't be harder than .10?

Fun and definitely worth doing while at the wall!!

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Kinda fun... kinda awkward... kinda forced. The clip and move right at the top is bush league. For having a contrived finish, the route ain't bad, but don't pop doing those last moves... you just might clang pretty good down below the overhang.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 23, 2010

Wasn't my cup of tea. If you like doing lie backs on cracks and doing forceful moves, go ahead and go for it. It just didn't flow for me
By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 19, 2010

An easier, more natural finish leads up and slightly right of the last bolt. The route is probably 10b that way. Climbing straight up past the bolt puts you in holdless no-man's-land with obviously easier lines to the left and right. It's almost like they put that last bolt there to sucker you in.

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