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The Pantheon
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Bury the Hatchet T 
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Stem Cell Research T,S 

Stem Cell Research 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: T. Hudgel, J. Gill, 1990
Season: Faces NW
Page Views: 165
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 7, 2013

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Description 

This climb actually has nice movement, but the experience is significantly marred by some crumbling rock in sections. While it is not dangerous, it can be innervating. Perhaps the line will clean up with more ascents and get more stars in the future.

Climb up mellow but broken low angle rock to a stance below a nice, flat, bolted face split by horizontals and incuts. Protection on this mellow area is not great but perhaps not needed. You will work it out. Clip a bolt and pull up onto the face (5.10-), and then clip some more bolts, heading slightly left to a flake and shallow corner feature to a bulge. This area is sustained 5.10- climbing with a harder move here or there and depends more on technique than anything else, save perhaps trusting the holds not to shed flakes and spit you off. If you can put the insecurity out of your head, these are actually really great moves. You will pass a bulge and a few more bolts, eventually arriving at a bolt and chain anchor, perhaps having placed some more stoppers or cams along the way to reduce space between bolts. My partner placed 4 or 5 pieces, concerned about the rock quality a few times, though none broke on either of us.

Rap 90' from the chain anchor.

Location 

This route climbs broken rock to a nice, flat, bolted face to a bulge about midway up the hill along the base of the middle buttress of the rock. It is about halfway between The Y Crack and The Oculus.

Protection 

A light rack of cams or stoppers from 0.3" to 1.5" + bolts.


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