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"Exercize Buttress" T,TR 
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Don't Know Much About Biology TR 
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Unsorted Routes:

"Steeple" Face 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown, probably the mid 1970s
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Robbovius on Jul 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The route is short and somewhat contrived, but a fun, or painful, crimp-fest. Start in the small right hand corner to the left side of the bottom of the monolith. Follow the face up right on small crimps and toe chips, until you can place a hand on the "point" of the Steeple. Both sides of the monolith are off route. Balancy, technical, and crimpy. the feet get progressively thinner the higher you go. yeah, those easy holds beckon...don't be tempted!

For added fun, start on the face underneath the right-slanting overhang on the right side of the monolith. Climb up the face under the overhang on good holds as far as you can, and then transfer out left from under the overhang and onto the face on crimps and one good foot. Enjoy!


The climb goes up the face of the right-leaning semi-detached monolith that forms part of the jagged buttress just to the left of the "Exersize Left to the Reader" 5.9 handcrack, and is identified by an obvious sharp point at the top, the "Steeple". It's about 2/3 of the way down the crag towards the south end.


Set up the TR anchor on the ledge above "Exersize Left to the Reader" with the power point hanging over the edge of the face above and behind the steeple point. Toss your rope out over the monolith face. Even with gear, you'll need longish slings.

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