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Lightning Never Strikes Twice T 
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Steelin' 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Rone
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Oct 9, 2013

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Description 

Steelin' is on a buttress on the south side of The Inner Marker, and is best approached by walking SSE from Déjà Vu Prophecy past Magic Marker, and then doing a short scramble to the east down a narrow ramp, past a small pine tree, and into a gully. The start will be obvious.

Clip the first bolt and lie back the flake to a stance. Climb up and left through some schist to some large crystals. Work your way up a bit further and then reach left for good holds on the edge, then move left to a good stance. Move higher, eventually liebacking a big rounded flake on your way to a big ledge, and the start of the upper section of the route. Climb steep crystals and knobs for 30', to a wide pod where the angle eases off, and then on to the summit.

The bolts on the lower section were put in on rappel, while the upper section was equipped from the bottom up. You might think it's over bolted, maybe it is. But that's the result of a bunch of falls this year because of breaking holds (not on this route).

Location 

The route lies a but 100' southeast of the start of Déjà Vu Prophecy. Scramble down a narrow ramp past a small pine tree. When at the start of the route, you can look across the valley at the Truman Tower and the White House Wall.

Two ropes are required to do an easy rappel off the route, since the start ramp/gully continues to drop steeply to the ground below. A more difficult and dangerous rappel can be done with one 60m rope, by doing a pendulum left to the start of the route, when you get near the end of the rope ends. If you use one rope, be sure to knot your ends!

Protection 

All fixed gear, lots of bolts and a fixed pin. Take 15 draws, some with long slings. There is a two-bolt belay/rappel anchor on top.


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