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Steelhead 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 10535'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The burly opening crux of Steelhead.

Description 

Do the beginning part of Sea Monkey up the chossy crack but about midway where you get to a stance on Sea Monkey clip bolts out right on the Arete and go into the steep arete just left of Holy Macerol. The open moves moving onto the arete on Steelhead are cruxy for a couple bolts (V4 boulder problem). From there continue up the beautiful arete for quite a ways with fun 5.11 climbing on good quality rock. There's one final (11+) heart break crux just before clipping the anchor out right. Rope stretching 35m pitch! The arete is super good quality rock and exposed!

Location 

Left of Holy Macerol. Right of Sea Monkey and Excelsior.

Protection 

bolts


Photos of Steelhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Excelsior, Sea Monkey, and Steelhead
BETA PHOTO: Excelsior, Sea Monkey, and Steelhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Steelhead is the blue line right of Sea Monkey.
BETA PHOTO: Steelhead is the blue line right of Sea Monkey.

Comments on Steelhead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dustin Stephens
Nov 19, 2013

Nice POD, looking forward to trying this one!
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 28, 2014

I moved the first bolt that you clip as you move from the crack "Sea Monkey" shared start. It was ridiculously hard to clip so i moved it a little more left. Should be better now.
By Vlad S
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The opening crux on the overhanging part of the arete is very contrived and is the worst part of the climb. It can be climbed around by staying in the chimney for another move to a big horizontal rail, while still clipping all the bolts. Would have been 4 stars if not for this. The upper arete is superb and the upper crux was a lot of fun and very exposed. Totally worth getting on! Thanks for this addition.
By Patrick O'Donnell
May 21, 2017

Vlad, I recently got back on Steelhead and moved 4 bolts and added a new anchor. After several years not climbing on it and going back I realized several clips at the first crux and up high before the anchor were totally contrived and difficult the clip. Sorry folks! Nobody likes routes like that so I fixed the route yesterday. Should be way better and more fun and not scary now! Enjoy!
By Marek Hajek
From: Reno, NV
May 30, 2017

I haven't been on this one yet. Is it intended to split out right where the bolt line splits or where the blue line is drawn on the photo? The blue line on the photo seems to split off where the second bolt is after the bolt line splits.
By Patrick O'Donnell
Jun 2, 2017

Correct it splits off. Both routes share the same (somewhat crappy) start up the chimney. Gorge chimneys are never pretty. Unfortunately that was really the only option to get to the Arete (steelhead) and the seam (sea monkey).

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