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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Nov 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The burly opening crux of Steelhead.


Do the beginning part of Sea Monkey but about midway where you get to a stance on Sea Monkey clip bolts out right on the Arete and go into the steep arete just left of Holy Macerol. The open moves moving onto the arete on Steelhead are cruxy for a couple bolts. From there continue up the beautiful arete for quite a ways with fun mid 5.11 climbing on good quality rock. There's one final (easier) crux just before clipping the anchor out right. Rope stretching 35m pitch!


Left of Holy Macerol. Right of Sea Monkey and Excelsior.



Photos of Steelhead Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Excelsior, Sea Monkey, and Steelhead
BETA PHOTO: Excelsior, Sea Monkey, and Steelhead
Rock Climbing Photo: Steelhead is the blue line right of Sea Monkey.
BETA PHOTO: Steelhead is the blue line right of Sea Monkey.

Comments on Steelhead Add Comment
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By Dustin Stephens
Nov 19, 2013

Nice POD, looking forward to trying this one!
By Patrick O'Donnell
Apr 28, 2014

I moved the first bolt that you clip as you move from the crack "Sea Monkey" shared start. It was ridiculously hard to clip so i moved it a little more left. Should be better now.
By Vlad S
May 26, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

The opening crux on the overhanging part of the arete is very contrived and is the worst part of the climb. It can be climbed around by staying in the chimney for another move to a big horizontal rail, while still clipping all the bolts. Would have been 4 stars if not for this. The upper arete is superb and the upper crux was a lot of fun and very exposed. Totally worth getting on! Thanks for this addition.

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