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Steel Your Face 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland
Page Views: 9,801
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (122)
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Tim giving a little perspective as to where this r...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A classic slab marked by thin cruxes and tip-toe foot work. This climb will require balance and a little confidence. Fairly well protected, this tenuous route has only one definite crux, but plenty of "heads-up climbing" everywhere else. A wandering line with good movement and mass appeal. A great lead and a really nice climb!

    While the grade has been debated, 5.10a/b (E1 5b for our visitors) seems to be the benchmark. Your size, reach, and skill will become a prime factor when coming to your own consensus; expect fluctuations.

    Protection 

    Six to eight draws lead to a two-bolt anchor.

    Location 

    Located further down the road towards the petroglyphs, Steel Your Face can be found immediately off the road and 30 feet left of a School Room style slab area. It is directly left of a vegeteted section of the wall which is home to Puppy Love.


    Photos of Steel Your Face Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lots of high feet in this area. Word of caution: d...
    Lots of high feet in this area. Word of caution: d...
    Rock Climbing Photo: G trying to climb Steel Your Face
    G trying to climb Steel Your Face
    Rock Climbing Photo: Wall Street fun
    Wall Street fun
    Rock Climbing Photo: Terra at the crux of the climb.   Photo by Andy Li...
    Terra at the crux of the climb. Photo by Andy Li...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top on Steel Your Face.  5.10 rating is f...
    Near the top on Steel Your Face. 5.10 rating is f...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top of the route.
    Near the top of the route.

    Comments on Steel Your Face Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 9, 2017
    By L. Hamilton
    Apr 9, 2002

    Your mileage may vary! Sandy friction -- I thought SYF was no giveaway at 5.10a. Try Puppy Love, the nice 5.9 next door, as an easier warmup if you're new to this rock.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 30, 2004

    "good beginner/intermediate lead", bullshit! Just did this two days ago and thought it was solid 10a. It's dusty, and the holds are all rounded. I could believe this was easier before the masses climbed it when the edges were more squared, but I found it to be insecure and slippery for a good portion of the route. The crux was all that and sequential. Good route however, can top rope many routes from the top.
    By martin kocsis
    Apr 8, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Crikey! suggestions of 5.9 or whatever need to be taken with a pinch of salt. in 2 weeks of moab climbing, this was the hardest single move i pulled off (with such style too!)...harder than the kor-ingalls offwidth (can you compare two such routes?) and a walk in the park compared to nervous in suburbia. perhaps the "good for beginners" comment is due to the extremely friendly bolting. the crux move is english 6a.cheerio!
    By Matt McMurray
    From: Castle Rock, CO
    Nov 27, 2006
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I found this route to be a solid 5.10 when I recently climbed it. I agree that several of the holds must have rounded etc. It was quite sandy, and the crux seemed reachy to me. The first bolt is a bit high, but relatively easy climbing to get to it. Funny thing about slab climbing... it always seems/looks easier from the bottom. =)
    By Abandoned User
    Jun 3, 2007
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I think this was harder than 5.10a on lead. You have to compare to other routes in the area. I personally think it was at least a letter grade harder than Nervous in S. Very balancy, much longer and broken hold on the crux.
    By Daniel Crescenzo
    Oct 8, 2007
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    10a for sure. Thin moves.
    By Josh Petersen
    Oct 15, 2007

    One of my favorites in the area for sure, although it feels just a bit harder every year. So many fun, tenuous, just barely there moves.
    Be sure to TR the arete to the left, it is amazing, definitely worth taking a lap up.
    By Andy VanHouten
    From: Park City, UT
    May 11, 2009

    Interesting climb, super sandy at the bottom, but gets better as you get higher. Wouldn't rate this any harder than 10a, but it's no gimme. At least there are no pockets to get filled with sand....give it a whirl if you're in the area....
    By Rob Davies UK
    From: Cheshire, UK
    Oct 16, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Excellent slab climb. Thin crux by bolt #5 and clipping bolt #7 is a long reach and balancy. UK grade E1 5c, like a much longer version of the Brush Off at Helsby but a lot safer.
    By Jon Marek
    From: Sioux Falls, SD
    Nov 27, 2012

    If you can do the first moves, you can climb this route...but there may be a moment of doubt near bolt five. Gotta have faith in those feet. Would be classic if it didn't feel so sandy.
    By Tyson Waldron
    From: Reno, NV
    Nov 22, 2013

    If you like controlled, static, technical slab climbing, do not skip this one!!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Oct 14, 2014
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    The moves just below the first both could really hurt you if you are not solid at the 5.10 sandy slab grade...
    And I think persistent traffic on this climb has made it harder.
    By Rick Vermeil
    From: Erie, CO
    Apr 7, 2015
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

    Great sustained slab climbing! The hardware spacing and condition do not inspire confidence.
    By Steve Bachmeier
    From: Lander, WY
    Nov 13, 2015

    Nope, definitely not a 10a. Maybe years and years ago, but I'd honestly say this is now in the high 10 or low 11 range. It wasn't too dirty or sandy, just very thin and rounded. Protection was decent, although some hangers are quite old.
    By DaveB
    Jul 30, 2016

    Be sure you're sandy-slab-ready when deciding to lead this one. Coolness and patience will be a virtue. +1 on height and reach challenges for some.
    By Rachel Fifer
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 9, 2017

    The 4th bolt is loose.

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