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Steel Reserve 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Hank Armantrout, Drew Bedford, 1983
Page Views: 3,108
Submitted By: Dave Budge on Aug 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Steel Reserve


Beautiful face and crack climbing on upper wall above and left of Ramon and Loomer. Great continuous climbing protected with small TCUs (no bolts). Really cool features, the climbing on the upper wall is stellar.

Easy to TR from new sport route to the left (shares anchors).


Starts in obvious crack chimney left of Total Ramon. Climb up through easier blocky terrain to thin crack system that splits the right side of the upper wall. A 60m rope will get you down.


Doubles of purple, blue, and yellow TCUs. Bring some bigger stuff for the approach crack. Bolted anchors with chains. Be prepared for an easy runout (9+/10-) to chains above a purple TCU (one could clip last bolt on sport route to the left if desperately pumped).

Photos of Steel Reserve Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance climbing Steel Reserve - Onsight.
Lance climbing Steel Reserve - Onsight.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance, Steel Reserve. - Onsight
Lance, Steel Reserve. - Onsight
Rock Climbing Photo: some more of same...silly compact digis...wish i h...
some more of same...silly compact digis...wish i h...
Rock Climbing Photo: a bit blurry but...
a bit blurry but...
Rock Climbing Photo: KW down lower on route, just getting into some of ...
KW down lower on route, just getting into some of ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kent Wheeler on Steel Reserve
Kent Wheeler on Steel Reserve

Comments on Steel Reserve Add Comment
Show which comments
By glen kaplan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 11, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

Kent...killa go! definitely have nerves and steel reserve!
i got some great video of you flying!!! and will eventually post it somewheres...the pics are all right...

FYI: while i certainly agree Dave/Kent have the most likely FA based on gumption, balls, cleaning, etc...i know i am not the only one to have tr'd this before...after all, you rap down the exact route when rapping off of Gregorio's and LD's 'Conflict' .10d 5/28/04 (the bolted line to the left)

so maybe there is another...

IT IS A PROUD AND HEADY TRAD LINE w/ awesome sporty moves!!!
By Luke Douglas
Aug 18, 2007

Dave & Co,
Really nice work. Historically it would have been cool if there was still a pin or two left from when you did this back in the day. Looks like you did not need them as protection though. Ballsy ascent and much respect for not retroing your climb. What a sick trad line!
By Dave Budge
From: South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Aug 21, 2007

Its a great route, now much cleaner and totally climbable. Too bad someone took the pin out, would've been a nice piece of history. If people aren't going to send something, there's no point in removing a pin, it is our history, it tells a story.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Mar 31, 2008

This was originally done as the second pitch to Total Ramon in '83. Hank Armantrout and I put in one pin near the top, which was there until the new routes and anchors to climber's left made pin stealing easier. We told Les Elison not to include it in the guide simply because the rock was too gritty. Funny how a few years in AF change your perspective. Glad it's seeing some traffic.
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Sep 16, 2008

This is a very good route, but the start should be the sport route below, which adds some variation. It still has some suspect rock, otherwise it would be spectacular. A couple of key (for me, anyway) large holds are grainy and a tad hollow. Plenty of pro but a heady lead nonetheless.
By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Steel Reserve is a spectacular line. Do yourself a favor dust off the trad rack and jump on this gem next time you're in the canyon, you will not be disappointed.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 27, 2010

Great line. The gear is all there, the moves are solid, and the pump ain't that bad. Best .11 in Fergy.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 19, 2011

Starting on Grommet is totally logical as Steel Reserve is a natural continuation of the same line. I found the pro leading up over the initial bulge past the dirty section to be a bit insecure, a flarey #1 camalot, but once you're up and over into the next crack the gear drops in well. Definitely save that purple TCU for the top before the thrilling runout to the chains though its mostly big ledgy holds. Try to fight the urge to bail left to the 10d sport routes' bolts. Quality climbing.
By Zak123
Aug 17, 2015

This is definitely my new favorite route up Ferguson. The gear is great, and the climbing is even better. Its an absolute classic in my mind.

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