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Steel Pulse 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Kelly, Dan Klimke, Gary Buckham, 1983. FFA: Jeff Kelly, Jeff Boucher, Matt Arksey, 1987
Page Views: 673
Submitted By: geoff georges on Mar 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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maybe my next cleaning project.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I was looking at the Cummins guide and it lists this as 10c, so I am guessing that must have been the first ascents assessment and that Cramer downgraded it to 10b.
We climbed the 1st pitch on a warm January day 2014. I red pointed it again in March 2015. It is a really good 1st pitch, interesting variety of climbing, well bolted at crux moves, great pro everywhere else. Don't let the mossy start scare you off.Most of the pitch is clean, the start is 5.8 at most.
The first crux is a short slab traverse past 3 bolts into right facing corner, 2nd crux is leaving the crack as it tapers off, going for thin flake, 2 more bolts and then the anchor.
100' pitch, 10b
As with any slab/face moves, conditions can really effect the outcome. Cool dry days are best.


Pitch 2 , short 60' pitch, 10b slab crux near start before and after 1st bolt, 2nd bolt protects slab till you gain left end of small overlap. 2nd crux balance move on short slab below anchor.

Pitch 3, 100', starts with nice layback cracks, 3 bolts protect upper slab. 10c
After passing the 1st bolt (1st crux), there is a hidden pocket- good for a BD #2. There are 2 bolts above here (2nd crux, 10c). Some gear protects the easy top of pitch.


One could combine pitch 1 and 2, or 2 and 3 if wanted.

Location 

This route is on the right end of the crag. Dukes of the Stratosphere (11d) is on the left and a bolted variation (Scratch and Claw) is just right of this corner start.There is a roof that you lay-back around and 3 bolts visible above from the variation that comes in from the right side. It is just below and left of the steep gully trail to the top of Lookout point.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2". Newer anchor at top of 1st pitch ( asca hangers ), can rap with single 60 meter rope. Bolted anchor top of 2nd pitch.Bolted Rap Anchor at top of 3rd pitch, Single rope rap from 3rd anchor to 2nd belay anchor, be careful not to swing into gully as the rap is not a plumb line.


Comments on Steel Pulse Add Comment
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By derekpearson Pearson
Mar 17, 2015

I did the whole route a long time ago and remember it was really good. The run out is a little bigger on the last pitch then the well bolted p1 .
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

It doesnt seem so run out now, just really stiff friction climbing.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 8, 2016

cleaned 1st pitch labor day weekend 2016.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 9, 2016

Thanks Geoff!

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