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The Cuckoo's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blast from the Past S 
Bubba-Do S 
Critic, The T 
Daredevil T 
Nickelodea (aka Burke on Auto) S 
Nurse Ratchit T 
Rancho Relaxo (aka Boys on the Hood) S 
Steamboat Willie T 

Steamboat Willie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alan Bartlett F&K
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: mhagny on Oct 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The route passes alongside the dihedral, and is hi...

Description 

Face-climb to right-facing dihedral, then up the slab on the right of the dihedral, then up the corner as it steepens. Bolt anchors with rap rings are nearby to the right as you pull up the corner.

Location 

Just to the right of The Critic

Protection 

Can be done with only the bolts, but using a small cam in the crack alongside the dihedral soothes the nerves on the mildly runout slab (easy terrain, but a bit slick) that follows.


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By Murf
Apr 10, 2017

This description is a P in my A. I certainly think gear before the bolt right, excuse me, R, of the corner was required to avoid a R rating.

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