REI Community
Party Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'Bout Time S,TR 
Autum Fire T 
Back in the Saddle T 
Biohazard T 
Crimes of Flashin'  S 
Diversity in Microcosm T 
Eat My Dust S 
Exoduster S 
Freaky Stylee S 
Harbinger Scarab S 
Manute Bol T 
Modern Primitive S 
Party All the Time T 
Party in My Mind T 
Party Till Yer Blind T 
Plug, The S 
Pocket Pussy S 
Premarital Bliss T 
S'more Energy S 
Smooth Operator T 
Stealth and Magic S 
Stim-O-Stam S 
Sweetest Taboo , The S 
Techman S 
Through the Never S 

Stealth and Magic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, Carl Samples, Bob Rentka, 1989
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: D B on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!


Right of Techman


7 bolts to bolted anchors.

Comments on Stealth and Magic Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWS
Nov 7, 2015

three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jun 16, 2016

Brian, did I actually call it soft 12c? That was wrongo!
By Mark Paulson
May 30, 2017

Four star movement detracted only by aspect (in a corner behind a tree) and a little sand up top (although it's way cleaner than it used to be). Otherwise, a fantastic climb.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About