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Stealth and Magic 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Rick Thompson, Eric Horst, Carl Samples, Bob Rentka, 1989
Page Views: 709
Submitted By: D B on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Everything you could ask for in a 12+ face climb at Endless. Burl your way through the powerful crux down low, finesse (or grovel) through a unique technical crux up high, and keep it together for one more reeeach at the end. Don't expect a gimme, but you are certain to feel accomplished after ticking this one! Used to be the same grade as Techman, which seems like some sort of cruel joke.

I can't think of a reason why this route doesn't deserve four stars, maybe because it's stuck in the corner? It's at least as good as Freaky Stylee. Get on it!

Location 

Right of Techman

Protection 

7 bolts to bolted anchors.


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By BrianWS
Nov 7, 2015

three district cruxes, killer movement, and great stone... That is, until the last two bolts, where the rock quality takes a turn for the friable and sandy. Oh, and it is one of the few technical climbs at the New which stays dry in the rain.

It's also one of the few NRG 5.12s where taller folks may be at a distinct disadvantage during the crux. Described as "soft 12c" in the Thompson guide, but definitely harder than that. 12d seems very fair.
By Rick Thompson
From: Mount Nebbiolo, CO
Jun 16, 2016

Brian, did I actually call it soft 12c? That was wrongo!
By Mark Paulson
May 30, 2017

Four star movement detracted only by aspect (in a corner behind a tree) and a little sand up top (although it's way cleaner than it used to be). Otherwise, a fantastic climb.

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