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Lumpy Wall
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Steal Your Thunder 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Any
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 3, 2006

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Description 

The start is awkward and the crux. Once you get into the main part of the crack you get good stances and good moves. Unfortunately the main part is too short. Belay on a ledge before the acute dihedral.

We found an ancient steel hex buried in the crack attached to some nearly completely deteriorated webbing.

Location 

Hike right from the main wall of Lumpy for a few hunderd yards. This route can be identified as the best looking crack in the area. It begins in a short dihedral in a low spot and changes to a splitter hand crack in great rock.

Protection 

Hand sized cams with a few pieces at either extreme (tight hands and fists). Take some wbbing for the anchor to rappel from the top of the first pitch.

We rappelled from a knotted piece of webbing slotted in the crack. Perfect anchor!


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By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Oct 13, 2006

There is a second pitch to this. We couldn't see the upper part of it but the lower part looked really good. We bailed because by the time all four of us got to the belay ledge the first three were really sick of being on the wall and wanted to get down.

Someone should go do the upper pitch.

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