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Routes in Tortilla Flats
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Bean Dip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Five Feet and Wine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Frijoles Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Chile T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hot Salsa T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hot Salsa Direct T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jalapeño Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jalapeño Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lichen Delight T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mejilla Derecha T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mejilla Izquierda T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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My Lichen T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Not My Lichen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shrimp Fajita T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smorgasbord T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Steak Fajita TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Vintage Wine T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: |
TR, 45 ft (14 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
| FA: | Jim Straight, Roy Lucht, Mike Montoya, Lou Horak |
| Page Views: | 855 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Brett Kettering on Mar 3, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
The beta photo shows three lines on this slab. This one is a bit more meaty (ergo the name, "Steak Fajita") than it's smaller brother to the left, "Shrimp Fajita".
The left, green, line appears to be the same route as #3 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, rated at 5.9-. Also it is described as route #3 in the online guide, rated as a "5.9 Face/Friction" line.
It's not clear if the 5.7 crack immediately to the right is on or off route. If the crack is off, then this was most likely intended to be a toproped climb, due to the absence of bolts, because part of the bottom one-third of the face probably clocks in at well over 5.10 (imagine slick smearing on smooth, patinated, shallow ripples of basalt) with no pro and high groundfall potential. Even if the crack is on, the upper one-third of this face route diverges from the crack and would be sketchy to lead on gear, although it's more like 5.8 at the top. Overall it feels kind of contrived (as I understand the line). Any FA information as to the original intent of this line?
The middle, yellow, line is probably the same route as #4 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, but that guide appears to have the topo slightly wrong (too far to the right). This crack is also apparently noted on the online guide's hand-drawn topo, but it is not identified as a climb in that guide.
This grassy/dirty crack starts thin and angles up left; at which point it then widens to hands and continues up to the right across the slab face. The top of the crack keeps angling to the right until it forms basically a horizontal ledge, from which you must continue either up the face on the left or back to a short crack system. Rated at 5.7 if you stay in the crack.
The right, red, line is rated 5.8+, but mainly for the bottom part staying on the corner. There's a bit more grippy 5.8'ish climbing about 2/3 of the way up. After that, angle left to the anchor.
The left, green, line appears to be the same route as #3 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, rated at 5.9-. Also it is described as route #3 in the online guide, rated as a "5.9 Face/Friction" line.
It's not clear if the 5.7 crack immediately to the right is on or off route. If the crack is off, then this was most likely intended to be a toproped climb, due to the absence of bolts, because part of the bottom one-third of the face probably clocks in at well over 5.10 (imagine slick smearing on smooth, patinated, shallow ripples of basalt) with no pro and high groundfall potential. Even if the crack is on, the upper one-third of this face route diverges from the crack and would be sketchy to lead on gear, although it's more like 5.8 at the top. Overall it feels kind of contrived (as I understand the line). Any FA information as to the original intent of this line?
The middle, yellow, line is probably the same route as #4 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, but that guide appears to have the topo slightly wrong (too far to the right). This crack is also apparently noted on the online guide's hand-drawn topo, but it is not identified as a climb in that guide.
This grassy/dirty crack starts thin and angles up left; at which point it then widens to hands and continues up to the right across the slab face. The top of the crack keeps angling to the right until it forms basically a horizontal ledge, from which you must continue either up the face on the left or back to a short crack system. Rated at 5.7 if you stay in the crack.
The right, red, line is rated 5.8+, but mainly for the bottom part staying on the corner. There's a bit more grippy 5.8'ish climbing about 2/3 of the way up. After that, angle left to the anchor.
Location
What was formerly called Tortilla Slab Left ascends the left half of the Steak Fajita Slab, located near the northernmost (leftmost) end of the cliff.
What was formerly called Tortilla Slab Crack splits the Steak Fajita Slab.
A formerly undocumented line to the right of the crack has sloping problem to get over near the bottom, then climbing more like the left side, but with bigger, better holds to the top.
What was formerly called Tortilla Slab Crack splits the Steak Fajita Slab.
A formerly undocumented line to the right of the crack has sloping problem to get over near the bottom, then climbing more like the left side, but with bigger, better holds to the top.
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