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The Northeastern Crags
Routes Sorted
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Beanstalk Crack, The T 
Big Red Shoes T 
Bigfoot was Here T 
Br'er Rabbit T 
Chess With Justin T 
Encour du Bottom feeder T 
Farewell Ronald McDonald T 
Happy Camper T 
Jolly Green Giant, The T 
Mountain Minor T 
Pick a Card T 
Shapeshifter T 
Sojourn of Arjuna T 
Squeeze Box T 
Steady Yeti T 
Thin Slice T 
Wiessner Corner T 
Yeti Beats T 

Steady Yeti 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn - Sept 29/2014
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 30, 2014

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Lower Part of Steady Yeti, NE Crags Photo by Amy C...

Description 

The arching finger crack up the face just left of the sharp arete of Bigfoot - From the base of Bigfoot, step left out onto the ledge around the corner and carefully stick clip the lone bolt and toss the rope down below for your belayer. Climb up good but somewhat friable holds to the left of the bolt and do a move to gain a horizontal. Step left and find the best spot in the horizontal for a .75 Camalot and extend with a shoulder sling. Use some good crimps to gain the next horizontal. Now you are into the finger crack, which heads straight up, then arches right (crux) and passes by a bush. Good footwork and the right jam sequence will help get you through the crux. Continue up the fun laybacks and locker finger jams to the shared anchor of Bigfoot at the top of the arete. Great climbing with lots of positive, mostly comfortable finger locks (no tape needed)

Location 

Just left of the obvious sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Shares the same bolted anchor.

Protection 

one bolt (stick clip HIGHLY recommended as the rock at the beginning is friable and the landing is terrible.) The rock quality then goes right up and the crack takes nuts well, especially off-sets. Rack to #2 cams, maybe double of the .75. - 60m rope, Bolted anchor with quiclinks


Photos of Steady Yeti Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to climb and looking a little bug eyed.  Ph...
Trying to climb and looking a little bug eyed. Ph...
Rock Climbing Photo: First lead go on my crack project left of Bigfoot,...
First lead go on my crack project left of Bigfoot,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steady Yeti
BETA PHOTO: Steady Yeti
Rock Climbing Photo: Steady Yeti
BETA PHOTO: Steady Yeti
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam - getting into the crux action of Steady Yeti
Adam - getting into the crux action of Steady Yeti
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam on sighting Steady Yeti
Adam on sighting Steady Yeti
Rock Climbing Photo: FA of Steady Yeti - photo by Amy Colburn
FA of Steady Yeti - photo by Amy Colburn

Comments on Steady Yeti Add Comment
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By Abandoned User
Oct 13, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I found this very, very, very similar in grade to Yeti Beats, ie I thought the crux was common to both and the finger crack was more like 5.10b/c ... or I am getting better at climbing finger cracks.

Either Yeti Beats is 5.11b, both routes are 5.11a, or Steady Yeti is 5.10+ ... IDK

gear is awesome so get on it!

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