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Station 53 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: R. Borschert
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 18, 2015

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The right side of Puttlacher Wand, with climbers o...


Among the most classic endurance routes in the Frankenjura, Station 53 follows an impressive line of intricate pockets up a seemingly endless wall. This continuously overhanging wall offers just enough respite to keep the pump building as you ascend out of the surrounding forest canopy.

Begin with easy moves along a detached flake. A few slab moves work left to an easy stance below an intimidating bulge. Deceptive moves clear the bulge, but the angle lessens ever so slightly as the pump grows. Get a well-earned shake in a left-facing alcove, and then turn a small roof on the right to gain a black, hanging corner. Dance up the corner, in a spectacular position, toward the towering summit.


On the far right sector of Puttlacher Wand. Begins immediately left of the metal Sector sign, up a series of flakes, then just left of the big roof on the right edge of the wall, to join a high, 1-foot deep left-facing dihedral in black rock.


About 8 bolts to an anchor. Take a moment to locate the correct line of bolts before setting off. The first two bolts are shared with routes to the left, and the third is shared with Tiramisu to the right.

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