REI Community
search
Lower Heart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Shoulder 
Directly Direct 
Heartbreaker 
Heartwarmer 
Heartwood Direct 
Missing in Action 
Nosey Heart 
Static Heart 

Static Heart 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Chuck Boyd, late '70s
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: M LaViolette Jr. on Jan 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Sweeney making moves on Static Heart

Description 

Good sit start, two big moves lead to the top. Start on twin crimps below a square flake/crimp thing. Pull up to the flake with your right hand, match, then pull hard and make the big move up and left to a flat jug, top out.

Location 

On the right side of the boulder, about five feet right of Nosey Heart arete.

Protection 

A few pads and a spotter to help keep you off the tree.


Photos of Static Heart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stickin' it.
Stickin' it.

Comments on Static Heart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jan 8, 2012

Make sure to pull DOWN not out on the flake.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 21, 2012

FA - Chuck Boyd, late '70s
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Nov 25, 2013
rating: V3 6A

Tried in the warmer season to be shot off the start crimps repeatedly! cold season goes 1st go. all hail friction!!
By Graham O.
Jul 15, 2016

I love this climb. One of my favorites in the woods. Everyone should do this thing!
By Jack Ritzenberg
Nov 13, 2016
rating: V3 6A

Phenomenal climb, must do for Lincoln Woods.
By Aaron Hwang
Apr 10, 2017

I don't know how much life is left in that key flake hold. This thing flexes like crazy. Would it be kosher to reinforce it with glue before it comes off?
By Joe M.
Administrator
Apr 20, 2017
rating: V3 6A

It has been reinforced several times already, so I would say yes. Just be sure to do a good, clean job (no one should be able to tell that it has been glued).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About