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Static Cling 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jim Beyer, Pat McInerney, February 1990
Page Views: 7,537
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 1, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (166)
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Uknown belayer at the base of Static Cling. This ...

  • Poop Alert! MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Climb the thin crack system and pull up under the roof utilizing some side pulls (crux). Pull the roof (2nd crux) and continue to anchors on the right wall.

    The moves are aesthetic, and you can find some great rests, a great route.
    Although it certainly won't compare to longer classic routes, it is definitely one of the best on wall street.

    Location 

    This route is located about 50 feet right of Top Forty in a highly chalked left facing dihedral with a thin crack system, and a roof about 2/3 of the way up.

    There is a chalked up flake to the left that leads to the same anchors, Potash Bong Hit, a top rope climb.

    Protection 

    A set of camalots to a number 3, small pieces (tcu's) are helpful, and a set of nuts. Draws to extend pieces below the roof.


    Photos of Static Cling Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Matt below the roof, entering the crux of the clim...
    Matt below the roof, entering the crux of the clim...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce reaching through the crux of Static Cling.
    Bruce reaching through the crux of Static Cling.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
    Mike Keegan nearing the roof, GoPro fish eye view
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
    Lisa Gillest working the thin finger lieback
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the crux below the roof
    Moving through the crux below the roof
    Rock Climbing Photo: Static Cling
    BETA PHOTO: Static Cling

    Comments on Static Cling Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Greg D
    From: Here
    Feb 10, 2008
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    This is a quality climb and can be climbed in the rain (see photo) as well as Potash Bong Hit(5.9) which starts just 15 feet left and shares the same achors as Static Cling. Potash Bong Hit is worth doing and protects fairly well even though some guide books call it a top rope. See Potash Bong Hit on this website for more details.
    By BenCooper
    May 28, 2009

    For me, the key gear were a #0 and #00 TCU (purple + grey). These can protect the crux moves below and through the small roof.
    By Clayton Rardon
    From: Yucca Valley, CA
    Mar 31, 2010
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    excellent varied climb. easy to protect. Highly Recommended for the 5.11a leader. place a directional below the roof if you're going to TR. HAVE FUN!
    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Oct 6, 2011
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    Great route, not to be missed on Wall Street. Good gear, great movement.
    By zach cook
    From: Boise, ID
    Apr 10, 2015

    A must do if your strutting the strip. fun jams with great feet and and sweet traverse into a an awesome roof crux!
    By Emily C Sukiennik
    From: Sedona, AZ
    May 27, 2015

    Love this climb. Still haven't done it clean, the move right under the roof is a bit tough if you're not super tall.
    By Michael Dom
    From: Seattle
    Dec 22, 2015
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Make it fun and dyno once you hit the corner!

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