Further down rock quality gets much better Possibl...
This area is amazing. Large boulders litter the mountain side in random and plentiful cacophony. The rock is either a nice schist or a conglomerate/dolomite and is of fairly good quality. Most of the boulders are located directly off an old logging road that intersects the AT, however some of the gems require some serious hiking/bushwhacking. This area is mind blowing, and would make a great stop on the way to the Gunks, as its only 40 miles away by car. There is simply too much rock out here for one person to get a handle on, so come on out here and put up some problems !
Things left to be desired... long drive, not too many easy problems, boulders could be a bit bigger, but as of now I hardly know whats out there. Sorry for the lame photos, and vague directions, this area and page is a work in progress, and as I only found these boulders on mothersday, I have a lot of work to do.
The trailhead is the AT trailhead on Schaghticoke Rd near Bulls Bridge in Kent, CT. Head up the AT north and up the mountain. After you cross the creek and pass a couple head high boulders on your left (4 minutes in), there is a small cairn. Here you can go off trail north towards the anvil boulder which leads you to the logging road which uncovers the majority of boulders in this area. If you choose to stay on the AT, at about 7 minutes the trail takes you through the twin boulders, which are large, slabby and featured.
To get to the Trapps area, this is where you leave the trail behind. From the uphill side of the twin boulders, at the other small cairn, head southwest along the side hill cross country for about 20 minutes, you can vaguely follow a game trail most the way, crossing a large slab/cliffband/headwall. You will find amazing roofs and overhangs in this area.
Third option, If you stay on the AT instead... a few minutes further up the hill brings you to the tooth, a highball boulder with at least 3 super classic lines on it, all unsent. There are no good boulders further up the trail from this boulder that I have found so far.
Climbing Season For the CT Bouldering area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Stateline
Rain Days V1 5 Connecticut
: CT Bouldering
: ... : Rain Days Boulder
Classic problem working up diagonal crack. My variation stand starts on jugs, but a nice sit start option is there if you can deal with the spring water. Work up to the right, get feet over the bulge, then start working left to a good pinch and then straight up to top out. I have broken many holds here, and the nubs on the face are suspect, so be careful. ...[more] Browse More Classics in Connecticut
possible short routes on roof
choss arete - undercling on the arete is ready to ...
insane arete, field of dreams boulder
the eagles nest boulder many classic problems on ...
mystical boulder, in the middle of far side creek ...
great white boulder, the logging road area, statel...
Rain Days, V1 5 minutes down 'the logging road ' o...
no its not a hoax... Field Of Dreams Boulder, trap...
From: From the heart
Jan 26, 2013
This place has a ton of rock but its pretty low quality.
Apr 4, 2013
Disappointingly low quality rock similar to Squantz Pond. Further past the "tooth" boulder is a small valley of nicer polished granite with limited potential.