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Statebrook

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Batman has it in for Robin T,TR 
Berlys Arête  T 
Big Bro T 
Bipolar Express (Don's Long Climb) T 
Boy Scout Leader Likes Me, The T 
Butter My Butt And Call Me A Biscuit T 
Dysphemism T 
Evil Twin T 
Far Side (Previously 10lbs), The T 
Gary Goes Home Crying T 
Hollie's High Step T 
Inverted Englishman Direct  T 
Inverted Englishman, The T 
Jennelle and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day T 
Monsters Inc T 
Mr. Poopers T 
Mr. Poopers Backside T 
Only the Toad Knows  T 
Perverted Polishman, The T 
Priest Kept My Underwear, The T 
Snake in the Crack T 
Success of Sully's Bride, The T 
Sulley's Belay T 
Sully's Success T 
Thing 1 T 
Thing 2 T 
Three Lions T 
Tyler Knows Mr. Toad  T 
Uncle Hal Direct T 
Uncle Hal's Arete T 
Unnamed Project  T 
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver T 
Welcome to Statebrook T 

Statebrook Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,342'
Location: 43.26952, -74.56835 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,892
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 18, 2014
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Park across from this cabin.

Description 

Statebrook is a newly developed cliff (2013/2014) located in the town of Arietta. The cliff faces northwest which makes it a great hot weather destination. There are 30+ routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.11 in difficulty, as well as a few open projects. The climbing is single pitch with a mix of crack and face climbing up to 100'. The cliff features a bit of everything: thin technical face climbing, roof pulling, hand cracks, OW cracks and even a full length chimney. All climbs have two bolt anchors.

I would expect to run into a party or two on nice weather weekends but, as with most Adk crags, I wouldn't expect to ever see a crowd.

The rock quality is very good. Solid and grippy similar to nearby Lost T cliff. Many of the routes are still a little bit dirty, but should clean up with some more traffic. I would say bring a wire brush to be on the safe side. This is not to take away from the massive effort the Arietta Team has done to make Statebrook easy to access, safe and an all around fun place to climb. I'd like to see a pic of the place before development began.

There is plenty of information out there with full route descriptions and directions to the cliff. The Arietta Team has posted a downloadable PDF file here: thomannengineering.com/arietta...

Adirondack Rock has information as well:
adirondackrock.com/newroutes.h...

When I went I just downloaded the PDF in my phone and brought it to the crag. It was accurate and pretty freaking funny.

The fact that I'm even posting this on MP is a testament to my own boredom, stuck inside on this miserable, rainy Saturday. I guess it does allow for people to post there own pictures and opinions, which is better than nothing when the weather sucks.

Getting There 

Let the fun begin. The parking is on the west shoulder of route 10. Coming from the south this is 7.3 miles north of the intersection of route 10 and route 29A. The key landmark is a driveway on the east side of 10 that drops down to a small cabin and lean to. Park directly across the road from this. If you pass a bright red log cabin on the right turn around. The first cabin can be a little tough to see. Pick up the trail on the same side as you park and follow it. After a few minutes cross a snowmobile trail. Follow the well defined path for about 35 minutes reaching the cliff near the left end.

Climbing Season



Weather station 12.6 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',10],['5.9',8],['5.10',6],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Statebrook

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Statebrook:
Sully's Success   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Success of Sully's Bride   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   
The Inverted Englishman   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 70'   
Hollie's High Step   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 70'   
Berlys Arête    5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Priest Kept My Underwear   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Wally Your Finger Smells Like The Beaver   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Monsters Inc   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 90'   
Three Lions   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Statebrook

Featured Route For Statebrook
Rock Climbing Photo: The first of the two overhangs.

The Priest Kept My Underwear 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13  New York : Adirondacks : ... : Statebrook
A real attractive line along a thin, winding crack that passes through a couple overhangs. Rated 10a in the online guide, with a comment there that it may be only 5.9. I TR'ed it and no way it's 10a, but I don't doubt it may feel more serious and engaging if the gear is a ways below your feet. So I'm going with the average of what I experienced and what the guide says....[more]   Browse More Classics in New York

Comments on Statebrook Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gunkiemike
Jul 13, 2015
Good directions in the online guide; trail was easy to follow. Many THANKS to the crew that developed this fine cliff! It's a significant addition to ADK climbing. I'll be back!

Just a thought - bring a wrench. The bolts are new and we found a couple loose nuts (6th bolt in the Sully's chimney, and one of the drop-ins at the right-most route).

Also, the cliff faces NW and doesn't get the sun until around 3 PM, so it's a good spot for hot days.
By Skip Thompson
Jul 23, 2015
On two mid-week visits in July 2015 we kept looking at each other after getting off the climbs here going, "THAT was a great climb!" How is this place not more frequented? It's home of a series of really excellent 5.8's, great off-width/ face climb combinations, a CLASSIC moderate chimney climb (for NY State and the Northeast), and a whole bunch of hard face climbs. And the guys who developed this place did a FANTASTIC job bolting routes, putting drop-ins where you need them, and clearing and cleaning lines. Hats off and thanks for that. Bring a wrench to tighten the occassional bolt--it's a new area.

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