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Big Cliffs
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State of the Artless (The Open Book) S 

State of the Artless (The Open Book) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Coburn
Page Views: 457
Submitted By: jhump on Jun 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Nice, slippery dihedral on the left side of the Big Cliff. Make a few face moves to gain the Book. Then smear the "pimple" and layback or stem to a good rest. Some more steep face moves gain the anchor.


On the left side of the Big Cliff, right of "Beam me up Scotty."


Handful of draws.

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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Sep 10, 2009

actually called State of the Artless.
I did FA in late 80's I would guess. Todd McCormick almost had it but fell and suffered a compression fracture in his spine as a result.
By jhump
Jan 3, 2010

Yes, sorry about that. I have your old guidebook somewhere. I could not remember the name and I do recall that everyone called it the "Open Book." I grew up around there. Logtown was home crag for several years. I will never forget my father working and finally climbing this route. Many a climber has learned to use their feet on this one. A fine route. I forgot the story of Todd's fall and injuries. Old Dave told me that one. Modern gear took the sting out of a trad lead of this one, but it was still a trip, smearing past the nest of small gear.
By BrianCarson
From: Redlands, CA
Mar 8, 2013

I believe that Richard Rice had the FFA back in the 90s

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