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State of the Art 

Hueco: V12 Font: 8A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V12 Font: 8A+ [details]
FA: Pablo Hammack
Season: Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 4, 2013

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South Face of Icebox. State of the Art is dead cen...

Description 

Project!

Thomas Townsed spied this immediately upon cleaning the base of poison oak and dead bushes. Sit-start on small shelf. Left hand grabs a side-pull-ish crimp, and right hand latches a low, open-handed crimp. Heel-hook left, set up, and fire right hand to tiny edge. Thus unfolds a sequence of utter grimness.

Any heroes out there?

Location 

Middle of South Face of Icebox.

Protection 

Padz.


Comments on State of the Art Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Dec 4, 2013

Not only has Thomas done all the moves, he has come heartbrakingly close to sending the rig (as of November, 2013).
By Arthur Guittet
Jan 1, 2014

State of the art is broken now (the two good holds are gone) and probably much harder … but there is a variation starting left on a left gaston and right rounded crimp that is very nice. Probably around V6-7
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Apr 15, 2017

News flash: on 4/15, Pablo Hammack sent the project, calling it "In the Gnarbara". No grade as of yet. I'll let Pablo update this post as he sees fit.
By Pablo Hammack
Apr 15, 2017
rating: V12 8A+

I'm still sticking with State of the Art as the name. In the gnarbara wasn't a name for it. I was just saying where the thing was. I finally settled down for hard 12. We'll see if anyone repeats this in the future and if it breaks haha.

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