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Starter trad rack
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Jul 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Just me
Any recommendation of what gear to have for a beginner Skeeter aka richard
From Albuquerque, New Mexico
Joined Jan 28, 2014
24 points
Jul 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
This question gets asked daily. I recommend searching "trad rack" or "beginner trad rack" in the search bar and sorting by "Forum Posts"

Or here you go:
mountainproject.com/scripts/Se...
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Jul 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Acquisition of Knowledge
The forum is full of threads asking this very question, so you may want to plug that question into the search function and read so past replies.

It would be helpful to know what trad experience you have, if you have a regular partner or mentor, and where you intend to climb. It easy to say, "Just get a set of BD C4s and a set of stoppers" etc. But there's a lot of brands to choose from, and an obvious safety concern about lack of knowledge and experience (no offense intended, we all started at the beginning).
Mathias
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jun 4, 2014
313 points
Jul 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Tetons
I've always been of the opinion that the following makes for a good generic basic trad rack. You can tailor it to the specifics of your climbing style and climbing areas:

1 set of BD C4s #0.5-#3
1 set of BD stoppers #4-13 (or equivalent)
6-8 alpine draws (dyneema slings, lightweight biners)
6 quickdraws (they're usually sold in packs of 6)
2 double shoulder length dyneema slings
2 cordelletes (I like one to be cord and one a super long dyneema sling)

Add on small cams and start doubling up on cams as you start climbing more and start to realize the need for them. Same thing goes for smaller stoppers, specialty pro like tri-cams etc.
ChrisN
From Morro Bay, CA
Joined Oct 14, 2014
39 points
Jul 22, 2016
You will definitely want a set of stoppers, 12+ carrabiners and 6-8 shoulder length slings. Regarding slings, I would go to somewhere like REI and have them cut 3/4 inch webbing into 4.5 foot sections,then hand tie them. This will give you some material you can leave behind in case you want to beef up an existing anchor, tie off a tree, etc. and at the fraction of the price of commercial slings. For the rest of your rack, it depends on your skill level. If you are doing climbs in the 5.4-5.8 and in the back country, consider getting a few hexes and a few cams in the mid size range. If you are doing pretty hard cracks, then you will want to go for more cams sooner than later.

My general advice is go simple and cheap at the outset; develop good protection skills and let your gear evolve with your skill. Find partners that can show you a thing or two about gear placement and ask for feedback on your own leads and gear placement. The Royal Robbins book from the 70s, Basic Rockcraft, has tons of wisdom on sling use, lead strategy, and anchor and gear placement that will save your life some day! Also, join REI and buy the real expensive large cams with our REI 20% off coupon you get a couple times a year.
GeoffL
From Mountain View, CA
Joined Jan 23, 2014
1 points
Jul 22, 2016
A starter trad rack? That's nuts! Tradgic Yogurt
Joined May 20, 2016
61 points
Aug 24, 2016
My recommendation is don't just default to BD cam's, because that's what everyone else uses. There are lots of options out there for larger cams now.

DMM, and Wild Country both make C4-like cam's, but with some added/different features.

Metolious Ultralight Master Cams are really nice, especially for the smaller sizes, and slightly cheaper. Don't let the single axle design turn you off of these. They will have better a cam angle than the above options - so sacrifice slight range per cam for increased holding power.


Go to a store and handle them yourself if possible.


Beyond that, a set of nut's and enough slings to extend for the climbs you do (probably 6-10 starting). Quick draws are debatable, but if you do, try to get some with larger loops, and more flexible slings. Sport draws are generally looked down on because of their tenancy to be stiff and contribute to cam's walking, and nut's pulling.


Hexes and Tricam's are option, niche pieces, but can be useful for expanding your rack cheaply. My #3 sized DMM Torque Nut has gotten a lot more use than I thought it would (blue size).
Brian L.
Joined Feb 19, 2016
81 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
2 sets of ballnuts
quintuplets in hand sized cams
quadruplets in large hands and fingers
triples in microcams and offwidth sizes
1 set of hexes. Actually make that 2. More cowbell.
at least 23 alpine draws
1 set of tricams to include the sizes up to boat anchor
1 grappling
1 talon
1 skyhook
2 cam hooks
3 ascenders
3 sets of stoppers, 1 should be offset
1 set of big bros with triples in the blue size
at least 15 locking carabiners
137 ft of 6mm perlon cord
20 quickdraws

If you can't "begin" with that, something's wrong. Horribly wrong.
don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points
Aug 24, 2016
don'tchuffonme wrote:
2 sets of ballnuts quintuplets in hand sized cams quadruplets in large hands and fingers triples in microcams and offwidth sizes 1 set of hexes. Actually make that 2. More cowbell. at least 23 alpine draws 1 set of tricams to include the sizes up to boat anchor 1 grappling 1 talon 1 skyhook 2 cam hooks 3 ascenders 3 sets of stoppers, 1 should be offset 1 set of big bros with triples in the blue size at least 15 locking carabiners 137 ft of 6mm perlon cord 20 quickdraws If you can't "begin" with that, something's wrong. Horribly wrong.


Did you just list everything that's in your closet?
Brian L.
Joined Feb 19, 2016
81 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo:
Starting to lead trad? Don't forget the helmet. SinRopa
From parts unknown
Joined Sep 4, 2013
107 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
Brian L. wrote:
My recommendation is don't just default to BD cam's, because that's what everyone else uses.


The reason everyone uses them is because they are the best.
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Aug 24, 2016
grog m wrote:
The reason everyone uses them is because they are the best.

Are they? ;-)

Don't get me wrong, I like them, and own and use them, but I do also find myself thinking I should have gone a bit heavier on the MC's, and a bit lighter on the C4's. But I also haven't had a chance to play with the new, bigger MC's yet (with the stiffer wire - reviews seem positive though).
Brian L.
Joined Feb 19, 2016
81 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Yes
Having a mixed rack is for poor people. Nothing says i scraped together money and information from MP like a harness full of random shit that isnt color cooridanted and only the owner of the gear knows what is what.

For example, having green camalots and orange master cams. Super annoying when you are cruxing and looking down at your harness.
grog m aka Greg McKee
Joined Aug 29, 2012
115 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
Ewan wrote:
indiegogo.com/projects/teach-t... Please don't forget this essential piece of gear -Hilton

LMAO
BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
Brian L. wrote:
Did you just list everything that's in your closet?

I wish.
don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points
Aug 25, 2016
grog m wrote:
For example, having green camalots and orange master cams. Super annoying when you are cruxing and looking down at your harness.


I don't see the problem since those cover different sizes ;-)
Brian L.
Joined Feb 19, 2016
81 points
Aug 25, 2016
Get out and climb/follow a trad leader more, then you will know what you need. FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Sep 21, 2016
Ewan wrote:
indiegogo.com/projects/teach-t... Please don't forget this essential piece of gear -Hilton


Why has no one fully funded this idea?!
Fernando Cal
From Lynwood, CA
Joined Dec 19, 2015
10 points
Sep 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Sitting on Rock
Totally serious ... that seems like a good idea!

Feel bad that he only raised something like $250...
keithconn
From LI, NY
Joined Jan 1, 2015
35 points
Sep 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Picture of me at Catslab
Because it is dumb. If you can't get out to real rock to practice placements you can run class in the gym by using a bunch of holds bolted to allow for all kinds of gear (flared in and out, parallel, constructions, pockets, etc). Plus I am doubtful gyms would want this liability. When you do a lead test at ET they make you back up with a Top Rope and don't want you to fall. Parker Wrozek
Joined Mar 30, 2012
153 points
Sep 22, 2016
keithconn wrote:
Totally serious ... that seems like a good idea! Feel bad that he only raised something like $250...

Nope.
Here's 6 pages showing why:
mountainproject.com/v/leaning-...
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Sep 22, 2016
Marc801 wrote:
Nope. Here's 6 pages showing why: mountainproject.com/v/leaning-...


There should be a sarcasm button when pressing submit...this is why i love climbing plastic cracks in the gym!
Fernando Cal
From Lynwood, CA
Joined Dec 19, 2015
10 points
Sep 26, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: me
10 trad draws
10 sport draws
2x BD .5-3
1x alien blue/yellow/green
1x TCU blue, yellow, orange, red
a few mid/small tricams (great for building anchors at belays, not as fun mid-climb)
1x BD stoppers
1x wallnuts

Simple. Useful (unless you like da wide!).
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Sep 26, 2016
don'tchuffonme wrote:
2 sets of ballnuts quintuplets in hand sized cams quadruplets in large hands and fingers triples in microcams and offwidth sizes 1 set of hexes. Actually make that 2. More cowbell. at least 23 alpine draws 1 set of tricams to include the sizes up to boat anchor 1 grappling 1 talon 1 skyhook 2 cam hooks 3 ascenders 3 sets of stoppers, 1 should be offset 1 set of big bros with triples in the blue size at least 15 locking carabiners 137 ft of 6mm perlon cord 20 quickdraws If you can't "begin" with that, something's wrong. Horribly wrong.


Only one grappling hook? Get off the couch bro. #yergonnadie #callUPS #causeimfuckingsendingit
Andrew Gilsdorf
Joined May 17, 2016
0 points
Sep 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: urrr
Andrew Gilsdorf wrote:
Only one grappling hook? Get off the couch bro. #yergonnadie #callUPS #causeimfuckingsendingit


#sorightithurts
don'tchuffonme
Joined Jan 13, 2014
25 points


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